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  • Weather

    11° C Broken clouds
  • Time

    22:03 PM
  • Wine average?

    86 Tb
  • Country Ranking?

    986
  • Region Ranking?

    2
  • Popularity ranking?

    251

History

In a few short years Pibarnon has become a leading estate in Bandol. It was in 1977 that Comte and Comtesse Henri de Saint Victor came from Paris to realise a dream. The early days were difficult. On the 5 Hectares of land, terraces had to be prepared from the hard rocky soil. Heavy rains during the first winter saw the total destruction of their first year's work. Undaunted they started again. Now there is a total of 48 Hectares spread out, in small parcels, over the surrounding hills.

It has been said that Pibarnon has a secret ! How else could the property have won 7 gold medals in a row at the Paris Agricultural Fair during the 1980's ? No doubt several factors contribute to the "secret" but most important must be the high content limestone in the ancient triassic soil. It is also worth noting that the vineyards are the highest in the appellation, with fine sunny exposures to ripen the grapes and cooling evening breezes to preserve fine aromatic complexity. This is a classic case of "terroir" driving quality.

Comte de Saint Victor is assisted with the vineyard management and wine making by his enthusiastic son Eric. His wife, Catherine, redesigned and rebuilt the old Provencal house with such impeccable taste that numerous magazines have been to photograph and report on her achievements. The family commitment to hard work is also part of the "secret". Notwithstanding, after only 15 short years, Pibarnon is to be found on the tables of the leading restaurants of France, enjoying a prestige and notoriety that usually takes more than a lifetime to accomplish.

 

 

In 1978, after visiting many French vineyards, Catherine and Henri de Saint Victor stopped in Bandol in the secret hope of acquiring a wine-producing estate. While lunching in a little restaurant by the harbour, they discovered the 1975 Château Pibarnon Red and were immediately struck by the quality of that great wine. They noted down the information and, without wasting another minute, Henri and Catherine set off to inspect the property.

They were received by Modesto Ramognino's successor who happened to mention that he was finding life very hard at Pibarnon, perhaps too hard. The cellar and the house obtained their water supplies from wells and had no running water, the soil was very stony and the environment very harsh. However, the beauty of the site, at an altitude of 300 metres overlooking the scrubland of Provence and the Mediterranean, and the wine they had sampled, persuaded Catherine and Henri to utter the words that were to thrust them into a new life: "We're interested in buying”.

Thus, they acquired Pibarnon, an uninterrupted 16 hectares of land, suspended between earth and sky, only 3.5 hectares of which had been planted with vines.

 

Henri de Saint Victor was not afraid of starting from scratch. He was used to registering patents and having to start all over again with each discovery ...

He knew nothing about vinification and wine-growing, but he did know how to taste wines.

 

Having no agricultural labourers didn't bother him. Henri became a tractor driver and looked after his vines himself. He dived into his passion with the fire of a pioneer, bulldozed the land into terraces, raising tons of dust, and immediately planted 6 hectares of vines, achieving a total of 9.5 hectares. Henri handled the wine-making process himself and marketed the wines with his wife Catherine to local restaurants and cellarmen, forming a clientele. The house, which was uncomfortable and too big, and the cellar, which was too small, obliged Catherine and Henri to rethink the whole project. Nothing seemed to stop them. They pulled the house down and rebuilt a more modern, better equipped home, a perfect replica of an 18th century Provençal farmhouse. The wine store was completely remodelled and a modern vat system was installed. The task was daunting but Catherine

and Henri did it on their own, like mediaeval builders. It was not until two years later than they employed a young head grower and, four years after that, chose a chief warehouseman.

 

In 1980, the moment came to present their first wines at the great wine competition of the day: the Paris General Agricultural Show.

 Their success was immediate.

It was the 1978 vintage which made the grand slam:
    - GOLD medal for red and rosé wines
    - SILVER medal for white wine

 Their first attempt turned out to be a masterstroke. For six years on end, until the 1984 vintage, Pibarnon Red won the GOLD medal. That had never happened before in the history of the competition.

 

From the outset, and throughout the years that followed, the couple formed close links with certain journalists, great wine waiters, restaurant owners and also, eventually, a few importers.

All of them were prepared to bet that the venture would be successful, were keen to show these Mouvèdre wines to their customers - and even to force them to try them.

During the 1980s and until the early 1990s, the property gradually increased in size. From 9.5 hectares it grew to15 hectares, then 20 hectares. Some tenanted farms on the hill also enabled the vineyard to expand. As the vinestocks matured their production became ever finer. Even with the extensions, Catherine and Henri were not producing enough wine. The price of success is that demand outpaces supply. It is true that this enabled them to choose their retailers and importers with care, to avoid mass distribution, but one cannot be the originator of a great estate without wanting to satisfy the demand ... New vineyards and an amphitheatre of vines soon came into being!

 

Eric de Saint Victor, who had completed his studies and taken several courses in the Bordeaux region, joined his parents on the estate.

He played an active part in the grape harvest and worked meticulously with his father on the 1989 vintage whose Red the Slow Food Guide was to classify the following year as one of the 150 best wines in the world.

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Vineyards

Overlooking the Mediterranean and grown on undulating hills where olive trees, cypresses, figs, pink laurels, pines and oaks grow, the Pibarnon vineyard truly dazzles the eyes - a bit of paradise in Provence, situated on the highest slopes of the soil of Bandol. The wonderment begins as you start up the small, winding road from the village of Cadière d'Azur to Château de Pibarnon. The road climbs up through the vines and pine trees of Alep, offering unforgettable glimpses of Ciotat bay and Bec de l'Aigle. Then, round a sharp bend, the Pibarnon estate reveals all its charm. On the hill where the optical telegraph linking Toulon to Paris used to be, stands the Pibarnon farmhouse, a perfect replica of an 18th century Provençal farmhouse. Above the farmhouse are serried ranks of vines up to a height of 300 metres and a series of corries facing the peaks of Le Castellet to the north and the resolutely blue sea to the south. From the cellar's terrace, the view is worthy of the Theatre of Epidaurus. Remodelled by hefty bulldozers, the semi-circular vineyard looks like a mighty Greek amphitheatre overlooking Cap Sicié and the Mediterranean. The vines, planted on restanques, centuries-old terraces hand-built by generations of "wall-builders”, resemble hanging gardens suspended on those steep slopes.

You might come upon Pibarnon by chance but you will always return to experience once again the emotion induced by the majesty of an incomparable site.

 

The secret of Pibarnon's wines lies in the complex alchemy of its local soil: a unique Triassic limestone soil born of a particular geological characteristic which perfectly regulates the flow of water to the vineyard, a brilliant grape variety, Mourvèdre, and an altitude of more than 300 metres above sea level, matched by an ideal micro-climate. Great wines are always born on great soils.

Brilliantly set out in a natural amphitheatre, the local soil of Pibarnon is a unique geological phenomenon. Its soils are very different from those of the rest of the area covered by the Bandol appellation. Formed in the Quaternary era while the Alpine folds were forming, the anachronic Triassic soil is in fact 150 million years older than the other local formations. Without that upheaval, Pibarnon hill would have been 500 metres beneath the sea. The special geological characteristic of a highly calcareous soil, rich in microfossils, explains the aromatic delicacy and elegance of Pibarnon's wines and, on its own, would justify the estate's classification as a "clos” or a "climate”.

Another major characteristic of the local Pibarnon soil is the presence in the subsoil of Santonian blue clays, rich in essential oils, which are also found in estates as important as Château Yquem in Sauternes or Château Pétrus in Pomerol, and are always the source of great wines of rare elegance and subtle aromas.

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Winemaking

As the vine, the vatting requested lots of patience. Tannin extract slowly after long days of maceration and punching. Fermentation is followed by a very long Maceration (about 3 weeks) before running off. Breeding in casks of oak for 20 months. Casks park will soon be renewed at 100%. A diversification in choice of Suppliers and barrels of differents ages to best adapt the breeding of each of our terroirs.

 

Passion is the driving force to the care and devotion given to the wine making at Pibarnon. Attention to every detail is the order of the day. All the grapes are picked by hand. 


Rouge :
The red is also fermented at a controlled temperature of 30°C with frequent 'pigeage' by hand and dayly 'remontage' to keep the juice in contact with the skins as much as possible. A long maceration period of three weeks follows before racking and ageing in oak 'foudres' for 20 months. This ancient and traditionnal method has, time and again, proved its worth for wines that are made to keep for at least 10 to 15 years in bottle.

Rosé : 
The rosé, made Mourvèdre and Cinsault from the first pressing, is vinified slowly at a controlled temperature of 24°C for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation is done completely. Ageing in vat until bottling, a few months after the harvest. 

Blanc :
The white wine is vinified at 22°C over a long period of about three weeks. Unusual in the south of France, the malolactic fermentation of the white is allowed to follow on.

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Inside information

Rouge :

The Mourvèdre is a very fragrant grape, producing wines of great depth, a rich colour and enormous complexity. It ripens late and performs best in the warm Mediterranean climate of Bandol. At Pibarnon, to ensure perfect maturity, the grapes are often picked 10 days later than is customary in Bandol. The upshot is a wine that comparesfavourably with great names from the more prestigious vineyards in France. When young, Pibarnon Rouge displays a massive floral bouquet with black cherries and spices. The firm acidity of the Mourvèdre gives good definition and a solid foundation for long term development. With time the wine mellows, exhibiting a harmonious elegance and wonderful heady flavours of truffles, wet leaves and cinnamon. Robert Parker in "The Wine Advocate" of June 1992 described the 1990 vintage as one of the finest young Bandol reds he had ever tasted ! He goes on to describe the "satural dark ruby / purple" colour, the "intense aromas of cassis, olives, richness, and spicy new oak" and on the palate "extravagant richness, as well as layer upon layer of fruit, good structure, and a whopping long, extremely well - delineated finish" ... 93 Points ! 

Rosé :
A very stylish rosé, light in colour but, thanks to the Mourvèdre, with a firm structure and solid base for ageing, at least for two years. The Cinsault furnishes the finesse and delicate flavours. This is a special rosé, full and grapy, it has been described in the French press "as moving as a Lolita" !

Blanc :
The white Bandol is perfection, it is light and elegant, but with flavours of the South that betray the origin. The aromas are delicate and portray hints of almonds, jasmin and wild flowers. The Clairette provides the freshness, the Bourboulenc, the acidity and the sprinkling of Viognier, Marsanne and Petit Manseng from Jurançon add to the complexity of the bouquet.

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