x
  • Country ranking ?

    1 181
  • Producer ranking ?

    20
  • Decanting time

    No
  • When to drink

    2020-2035
  • Food Pairing

    Seafood, Salads & Consommes

The Story

Destroyed at the dawn of the 20th century by the infamous phylloxera vastatrix, all the Champagne region’s vines had to be replanted with American rootstocks that were resistant to the destructive insect.

All of them? Not quite... In Aÿ, two Bollinger plots classified Grand cru, the “Chaudes Terres” and “Clos St Jacques”, were miraculously spared by the phylloxera. From these vines cultivated using traditional methods, planted “en foule” (without any visible order) according to the provignage method, and worked by hand, is crafted the Vieilles Vignes Françaises cuvée: a Blanc de Noirs matured in the cellar for at least five years, with a cork stopper and then disgorged by hand. Vieilles Vignes Françaises is a confidential production of a few thousand bottles, an exceptional and extremely rare wine, with a memory of bygone days; a symbol, an extraordinary, evocative and moving legacy.

 

Bathed in golden morning sun of Champagne, three diminutive Pinot Noir plots are under the exacting scrutiny of vineyard workers. The plots, surrounded by stone walls, have been given special attention for over one hundred years. These are the only ungrafted vines in nearly all of Champagne that have managed to escape the ravages of phylloxera decade after decade. It is on this morning that the vineyard workers have discovered a fateful problem on the 16-are Croix Rouge plantation in the village of Bouzy. The year is 2004—phylloxera has landed.

“It was over in the blink of an eye. Right when we found out that phylloxera had hit us, it only took a couple of weeks before everything was gone. There wasn’t a thing we could do,” recalls Bollinger’s Christian Dennis.

Champagne Bollinger has cared for the vines on these three plots with an extraordinary passion since 1969. Renowned English wine author Cyril Ray was the guest of Madame Lily Bollinger when he recorded the history of the Bollinger Champagne house in 1968. His attention was drawn to these exceptional plots and the truly unique character of the wines they produced. At his urging, Lily Bollinger decided to produce wines from these plots under her own name. The 1969 vintage produced in honour of Madame Bollinger’s 70th birthday was released in 1974. The first actually commercial vintage was released in 1970. This ‘museum wine’ instantly became a favourite among collectors and a much-desired rarity, so seldom encountered in a lifetime.

Bollinger is one of only a handful of the remaining family-owned prestige champagne houses. Founded in 1829, Bollinger attained legendary status in its pursuit of perfection: its renowned Charter of Ethics and Quality was published in 1992 by Christian Bizot and Ghislain de Montgolfier, when the syndicate of Grand Marque houses was not ready to accept the stringent criteria as a guideline for all houses. Bollinger decided to stick with the Charter and its own values, which respect not only quality, but also family, the region and tradition. In an age of increasing champagne production and giant champagne houses, Bollinger has been able to keep its scale small. Export manager Philippe Menguy explains:


“Every year we produce two million bottles of champagne, even though we could sell four million. We have 12 million bottles in our cellars, which is a six-year inventory. We own and cultivate a majority of our grape needs, so we’re not dependent on purchased grapes.”

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Vintage 1990

Bathed in golden morning sun of Champagne, three diminutive Pinot Noir plots are under the exacting scrutiny of vineyard workers. The plots, surrounded by stone walls, have been given special attention for over one hundred years. These are the only ungrafted vines in nearly all of Champagne that have managed to escape the ravages of phylloxera decade after decade. It is on this morning that the vineyard workers have discovered a fateful problem on the 16-are Croix Rouge plantation in the village of Bouzy. The year is 2004—phylloxera has landed.

“It was over in the blink of an eye. Right when we found out that phylloxera had hit us, it only took a couple of weeks before everything was gone. There wasn’t a thing we could do,” recalls Bollinger’s Christian Dennis.

Champagne Bollinger has cared for the vines on these three plots with an extraordinary passion since 1969. Renowned English wine author Cyril Ray was the guest of Madame Lily Bollinger when he recorded the history of the Bollinger Champagne house in 1968. His attention was drawn to these exceptional plots and the truly unique character of the wines they produced. At his urging, Lily Bollinger decided to produce wines from these plots under her own name. The 1969 vintage produced in honour of Madame Bollinger’s 70th birthday was released in 1974. The first actually commercial vintage was released in 1970. This ‘museum wine’ instantly became a favourite among collectors and a much-desired rarity, so seldom encountered in a lifetime.

Bollinger is one of only a handful of the remaining family-owned prestige champagne houses. Founded in 1829, Bollinger attained legendary status in its pursuit of perfection: its renowned Charter of Ethics and Quality was published in 1992 by Christian Bizot and Ghislain de Montgolfier, when the syndicate of Grand Marque houses was not ready to accept the stringent criteria as a guideline for all houses. Bollinger decided to stick with the Charter and its own values, which respect not only quality, but also family, the region and tradition. In an age of increasing champagne production and giant champagne houses, Bollinger has been able to keep its scale small. Export manager Philippe Menguy explains:
“Every year we produce two million bottles of champagne, even though we could sell four million. We have 12 million bottles in our cellars, which is a six-year inventory. We own and cultivate a majority of our grape needs, so we’re not dependent on purchased grapes.”

Read more
Close

Latest Pro-tasting notes

<10 tasting notes

Tasting note

color

Full

ending

Long

flavors

Mushrooms

nose

Complex and Opulent

recommend

Yes

taste

Balanced, Multi-dimensional, Well-structured, Rich and Full

Written Notes

The 1990 Vieilles Vignes Francaises came from the Clos Saint-Jacques, Chaudes Terres and Croix Rouges plots cultivated in the ancient layering method. The production process follows the regular Bollinger pattern with only the cuvee being utilised followed by fermentation in old 4 to 40 year old oak barrels or inox. The wine is regularly chaptalised and goes through the softening malo-lactic fermentation. During its 6-7 month stay in barrel the wine is racked twice but no battonage is carried out. After bottling in April the second fermentation takes place in 10-11°C over a long period of time. Regularly a bottle of VVF spends 5-12 years in the Bollinger cellars before being discorged. The dosage of 7-9 g/l brings harmony to this special wine, which gets to rest for a further 3 months in the cellar after recorking. This recipe created yet another successful VVF in 1990: Deep, yellow colour turning into gold. Vivid, rich and powerful wine with complex aromas of mushrooms, autumn apples and brioche. Extremely intense, firm and rich mouth-feel. Full-bodied and balanced wine with enormous length. Starting to open up but will give its best after ten years.
  • 97p

Information

Origin

Ay, Champagne

Other wines from this producer

Bollinger Special Cuvée

La Côte aux Enfants

La Grande Année

La Grande Année rosé

R.D. Bollinger

Rosé

Special Cuvée

Vins Clairs Cramant Vinifié en Fût

Vintage Champagne

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97p
 Pekka Nuikki / Founder of the Fine Wine Magazines, Pro (Finland)  tasted  Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1990  ( Bollinger )

"The 1990 Vieilles Vignes Francaises came from the Clos Saint-Jacques, Chaudes Terres and Croix Rouges plots cultivated in the ancient layering method. The production process follows the regular Bollinger pattern with only the cuvee being utilised followed by fermentation in old 4 to 40 year old oak barrels or inox. The wine is regularly chaptalised and goes through the softening malo-lactic fermentation. During its 6-7 month stay in barrel the wine is racked twice but no battonage is carried out. After bottling in April the second fermentation takes place in 10-11°C over a long period of time. Regularly a bottle of VVF spends 5-12 years in the Bollinger cellars before being discorged. The dosage of 7-9 g/l brings harmony to this special wine, which gets to rest for a further 3 months in the cellar after recorking. This recipe created yet another successful VVF in 1990:
Deep, yellow colour turning into gold. Vivid, rich and powerful wine with complex aromas of mushrooms, autumn apples and brioche. Extremely intense, firm and rich mouth-feel. Full-bodied and balanced wine with enormous length. Starting to open up but will give its best after ten years.
"

4y 4m ago

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