x
  • Country ranking ?

    554
  • Producer ranking ?

    23
  • Decanting time

    3h
  • When to drink

    now to 2040
  • Food Pairing

    Mushroom Risotto

1982 versus 1990 Bordeaux

When you receive an invitation to a comparative tasting of all Premier Crus from the two great vintages of 1982 and 1990, you drop everything and clear your diary. 1982 and 1990 represent the beginning and end of perhaps the greatest era in the history of Bordeaux. During these nine years there were only two vintages that could be seen as disappointments: 1984 and 1987. It could rightly be stated that the period from 1945 to 1953 produced similarly great wines; this is true for the top wines, but the overall quality reached new heights during the 1980s.

1982 was a milestone for the Bordeaux trade, coming as it did after the difficult decade of the 1970s, which was marked by the Bordeaux crisis, and the ensuing collapse of the 1972 bubble, the oil crisis and rapid inflation. On top of this there were a series of disappointing vintages.The financial markets had stabilised by the time the 1982 wines were offered in the spring of 1983, and by this time there was a large new group of potential wine buyers. There had been an influx of new magazines about wine and good living, and the public was ready to spend money. The American Dollar was high against a weak French Franc and, most of all, the wines were spectacular.

There were several reasons for this.

An early, even flowering, a warm but unspectacular summer and an exceptionally hot period during the end of August and the first half of September. It was this heat that made it possible for the record harvest to not only to fully ripen, but also to concentrate the fruit.  The harvest started on September 14 and was finished before heavy rains commenced on October 2. Another reason for the success of the vintage was that most châteaux had invested in their cellars and were able to work such a large and hot harvest. It was now possible to control the fermentation temperatures better than in earlier hot vintages, such as 1947. The grapes produced wines with such high natural alcohol that chaptalization became unnecessary. They showed deep colour, high and unusually soft tannin levels and a better acidity than first thought, as well as great fruit concentration. The media hype was great, particularly thanks to the advent of new wine magazines - this was the vintage that cemented Robert Parker’s reputation. The prices rose rapidly and have not looked back since. I remember all Premier Crus (including Pétrus) being offered to end consumers for around 50 euros en-primeur in 1983.

The scene when the 1990 vintage came along was quite different. There was a surplus of very good to great wine on the market – for the first time there was talk of three great vintages following one another. This lead to most châteaux lowering their prices by about 20 per cent compared to their 1989 prices, even though the quality was outstanding. There had been a steady increase in prices during the 1980s, but they were now more or less back to the opening prices of the 1982s. It was again a record harvest, but because most châteaux had by now introduced a ‘second wine’ and due to the fact they were more selective with regards to quality, there was actually less wine being bottled as ‘Grand Vin’ than in 1982.

We have been following both these vintages from a comparatively early age, as they were both precocious and easy to drink from the start. The top wines from both vintages are spectacular, but the overall quality is much higher in 1990. Here the wines were equally successful on both sides of the river, and even minor châteaux produced something special. We have always found most 1982s from the right bank to be too alcoholic and lacking in structure; indeed many are now ageing rapidly.

So, which vintage would claim victory?

It was easy in the case of Château Mouton Rothschild to pick the winner, given their 1990 has always been the disappointment of the vintage. It is now maturing rapidly and should be drunk or, even better, sold to someone who only cares for the name on the label. The 1982, on the other hand, was always seen as one of the stars of the vintage. Deep coloured with a great concentration of up-front fruit. Good, fresh acidity and a long finish. The only thing that worries me a little is the massive amount of tannins still present.

The 1990 Château Lafite Rothschild is a lovely and charming wine, full of warmth and style. A classic, elegant Lafite. It is ready to drink now and will bring pleasure for some time to come. The 1982 Lafite is ‘The Superstar’ in the eyes of the Chinese and this has led to the wine reaching new record prices at every auction in Hong Kong and beyond. The wine is very good – more concentrated than the 1990 and still very youthful.  We would call this a draw.

1990 Château Haut Brion is one of our favourite wines – a heady nose of tobacco, spices and leather. Lovely, soft fruit and ready to drink now, but don’t be fooled – this will age forever, just like the 1959 and 1961 Haut Brions. The 1982 Haut Brion is also a beautiful, charming wine, offering great drinking pleasure, but it does not quite have the exotic charm of the 1990. 

Drink soon as we don’t see it improving with age. Victory for 1990.

The bottle of 1990 Château Margaux was not a good bottle; the wine had a mature colour and lacked the usual structure and freshness. This is normally a good, soft wine, so we assume that this bottle had been stored under conditions that were too warm. The 1982 was also now quite mature with soft fruit and needs drinking soon. In this case it is a win for the 1982, although normally we would call it a draw.

Château Latour is usually the wine that needs the longest of all the Premier Crus to show its true class. 1990 was unusually soft and not at all typical of a Latour at an early age. It is a very good wine with soft tannins and great balance. Château Latour produced, for me, the greatest of all 1982s. A fantastic, mind-blowing wine, which combined the classic Pauillac style and backbone with spectacularly concentrated and sensuous fruit. It was joy to drink now and will continue to be so for the next hundred years. Another win for 1982.

Both 1990 and 1982 Château Ausone showed mature colour, nose and fruit.Both were quite pleasant to drink but not really up to Premier Cru standard in either vintage. A draw.

We have often given the 1990 Château Cheval Blanc a perfect score in blind tastings, as this is one of the most hedonistic wines we have ever had the pleasure to drink. We have compared it to Sophia Loren in the 1960s – soft, round, voluptuous, sexy and not a hard edge anywhere in sight. This is the uncrowned successor to Cheval Blanc’s legendary 1947. 

We have, on the other hand, never quite understood the constant raving about Cheval Blanc’s 1982. A very overrated wine for us – too alcoholic and overripe. In fact, it is always lacking the structure necessary to be really good. Not bad, but certainly nowhere as good as its reputation. A clear victory for 1990.

1990 Château Pétrus is a fabulous monument of a wine. Indeed, it displays the deepest colour of all. Still quite closed, but a giant waiting to come out and blow us all away. Very, very long finish. A great wine! The 1982 Pétrus is a wine with a fantastic reputation that, similar to the Cheval Blanc, has never really impressed me. Soft, mature and attractive but lacking the structure of a great wine. Another clear victory for 1990.

The luncheon was rounded off in style with Château d'Yquem from both vintages. 1982 was a difficult vintage for Sauternes, being caught as it did by the copious rains of October. Lightweight and really not very good. The 1990 is an opulent, soft and forward Yquem. Attractive and ready to drink now. 1990 prevails again.

All in all a wonderful afternoon with marvellous wines where, in our eyes, this time 1990 showed itself to be the more complete vintage.

by Tb

 

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The Story

There is an amazing dual hit of black fruit and fine-grained tannins here, which is rounded off with a wonderful creaminess. The fruit is encased in a huge structure, which is not always easy to assess when tasting en primeur, but it has a lovely fleshiness to it and the wine is multi-layered with flavours evolving in the mouth. Notes of cocoa, vanilla and tar show towards the finish and it all ends completely seamlessly. The tannins are extremely ripe and well-integrated. Ch. Haut-Brion is often understated at this stage, which serves to underline how fine this wine will be.

 

Château Haut-Brion Thomas Jefferson, the american ambassador to Paris and later President of the United States of America, visited Haut Brion on May 25th 1787 commenting in his journals about the soils of the vineyards as well as mentioning that there were four vineyards of first quality Château Margaux, Château Latour Ségur, Château Haut Brion and Château La Fite. He also wrote:"Haut Brion is a wine of the first rank and seems to please the American palate more than all the others that I have been able to taste in France.“ Jean de Pontac began constituting the Haut-Brion vineyard, in the Graves region, in 1525.

 

His descendants went on to produce "New French Claret," the precursor of today's great wines. Their efforts enabled Arnaud III de Pontac to sell his wine under the estate's name as early as 1660. Called “vin de Pontac”, then Haut-Brion, it gained a fine reputation and enormous success in London. The first of the Bordeaux great growths was born. Through the centuries, the owners and managers of Haut-Brion have been obsessed with perpetuating the château's reputation for quality. Classified a First Growth in 1855, Haut-Brion has done everything possible ever since then to maintain its standing. To perpetuate its Grand Cru status, an estate and its constituent parts have to be maintained over the centuries, suitable grape varieties for each plot have to be chosen, and a relentless selection process carried out. Today, a great American family, the Dillons, has been continuing this tradition for seventy years.

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Vintage 1982

1982 AN EXCEPTIONAL YEAR
Very great wine. An outstanding vintage year for both quantity and quality. A wine with great harmony and balance, very rich in tannin. This wine ends beautifully full and complex at the same time.

Weather conditions
Sum of temperatures : 3300 °C
Rain : 290 mm
Days where temperature above 30 °C : 18
Harvest : from 15/09/1982 to 24/09/1982

Current vintage notes
It is very seldom that such good conditions are met. April was very dry and hot.
June slightly thundery. A hot summer followed 40°C on July 8th.
Very hot during the harvest. Excellent weather conditions to produce a great wine.



The 1982 vintage was an extremely warm year. Greatly prized by collectors in Australia, this is probably the most silky smooth of all the Haut Brions with its complex cassis/dark cherry/grilled almond aromas and flavours. The palate is amazingly multi-layered, like glazes on a canvass, with fine silken tannins, and perfectly balanced savoury oak (97/100 points). The 1989 vintage was the first year Haut Brion green harvested, a method to reduce the crop. This beautifully intense wine, still in evolution and surprisingly quite aggressive, had intense chocolatey/cedar aromas and touches of sweet leather. The palate is the most muscular of all the younger wines with rich slinky/thick tannins and volumes of fruit (94/100 points). Some people measure length of flavour with the minute hand of their watch. This was like waiting for the kettle to boil.
Andrew Caillard MW

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Average Bottle Price

2016 2015 2014 2012 2010 2005 2000
312€ +13.9% 274€ +2.6% 267€ +1.1% 264€ +10.5% 239€ +68.3% 142€ +10.1% 129€

This data comes from the FINE Auction Index, a composite of average prices for wines sold at commercial auctions in 20 countries. The average prices from each year have been collected since 1990. This chart plots the index value of the average price of the wines.

Latest Pro-tasting notes

27 tasting notes

Tasting note

color

Medium and Ruby red

ending

Long, Lingering and Smooth

flavors

Blackcurrant, Smoky, Blackberry, Mineral, Blueberry and Mint

nose

Intense, Complex, Opulent and Ripe

recommend

Yes

taste

High in Acidity, Warming, Medium tannin, Complex, Concentrated, Perfectly balanced, Developing, Medium-bodied, Harmonious, Elegant, Rich, Dry and Silky tannins

Verdict

Well-rounded and Impressive

Written Notes

A magnum of 1982 Haut Brion was also delicious. This wine remains underrated and taken for granted in the context of this great vintage; it often sells at a quite reasonable price and no more than 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010 etc. This was another classic (96M).

  • 96p

Good color in the glass. Graphite, leather, cedar and cassis in the nose – very classic minerality for Ch. Haut Brion. A lovely satin mouth-feel, delicious black currant and cherry fruit with some backbone of tannins. Good balance and length. Beautiful wine! I’d give it a 93, but palate fatigue may be a factor as we get to the end of the evening. I had this wine a year ago with Diane and friends and I thought it nearly perfect.

  • 93p
Tasted in March 2005. Surprisingly quite ripe and light in color. Although it's structure, complexity and class was very compelling, I expected much more from this wine. Has this wine already peaked?
  • 92p

Information

Origin

Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

Vintage Quality

Outstanding

Value For Money

Good

Investment potential

Good

Fake factory

None

Glass time

1h

Highlights

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Wine Moments

Here you can see wine moments from tastingbook users. or to see wine moments from your world.

93p
 Michael Jones, Wine Blogger (United States)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

Good color in the glass. Graphite, leather, cedar and cassis in the nose – very classic minerality for Ch. Haut Brion. A lovely satin mouth-feel, delicious black currant and cherry fruit with some backbone of tannins. Good balance and length. Beautiful wine! I’d give it a 93, but palate fatigue may be a factor as we get to the end of the evening. I had this wine a year ago with Diane and friends and I thought it nearly perfect.

7m 17d ago

96p
 John Kapon / CEO / Ackerr Merrall & Condit, Pro (United States)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

A magnum of 1982 Haut Brion was also delicious. This wine remains underrated and taken for granted in the context of this great vintage; it often sells at a quite reasonable price and no more than 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010 etc. This was another classic (96M).

9m 23d ago

92p
 Izak Litwar / The most important Scandinavian Bordeaux Critic, Pro (Denmark)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"Tasted in March 2005. Surprisingly quite ripe and light in color. Although it's structure, complexity and class was very compelling, I expected much more from this wine. Has this wine already peaked?"

1y 1m ago

95p
 Omar Khan, Wine Writer (United States)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"No longer in the shadow of the lovely 1983, this is a charming Margaux, finally throwing off its fetters. There is potpourri, violets, truffles, and some chocolate on the ravishing nose. An enticing sweet opening, some orange, blackberry and cherry, exotic spice and some licorice emerge by the mid palate. The tannins are sweet and supple, this wine is silky, and is developing ever more verve and expression. Some red berries emerge again, as the suave, engaging, fruit-laced finish, washes over the palate with quintessential Margaux mellifluence. This is a beguiling wine very much in the ascendance still. 95 Points+ (2 second place votes)"

1y 3m ago

97p
 Christer Byklum / Leading Scandinavian wine blogger, Wine Writer (Norway)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"Ruby. Ripe, rich, scented, plums, leather, tobacco, intense, layered, detailed and complex, lovely nose, flirting, very mineral with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich, fresh, detailed, ripe, plums, still structured, quite youthful, long finish. 97"

1y 10m ago

97p
 Andrew Caillard MW, Wine Writer (Australia)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"The 1982 vintage was an extremely warm year. Greatly prized by collectors in Australia, this is probably the most silky smooth of all the Haut Brions with its complex cassis/dark cherry/grilled almond aromas and flavours. The palate is amazingly multi-layered, like glazes on a canvass, with fine silken tannins, and perfectly balanced savoury oak (97/100 points)."

2y 2m ago

95p
 John Kapon / CEO / Ackerr Merrall & Condit, Pro (United States)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"The 1982 Haut Brion was delicious but advanced. It had an intoxicating, sweet nose that reminded me of the ’45 Mouton I had the night prior, but I will get to that more later. Its minty, sweet, brown sugary nose was very inviting, but it was more advanced and more mature than every other wine so far. It was still so good, but it was more ’45 than ’82. I guess that’s a compliment. If it was really a 1945, I probably would have given it a point or two higher, which sounds like the definition of pedigree (95A)."

2y 3m ago

98p
 Georg Linde, Wine Writer (Germany)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"I liked this much better than most people around the table. To me a magical bottle with dried fruit, spices, herbs.""

2y 4m ago

95p
 Totte Steneby, Sommelier (Sweden)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"Chateau Haut-Brion 1982

Open and sexy though not very complex nose of ripe plums and currants with mushrooms, herbs and spices notes. Deep for sure but not really stunning.

Much better palate than nose with full, ripe, sweet, maturing fruit of plums, blackberries, coffee mint and spice. Still youthful with very silky tannins, smooth, seamless mid-palate and very long, elegant finish. Builds in the glass over several hours.
Now-2028
95p "

4y 3m ago

96p
 Christer Byklum / Leading Scandinavian wine blogger, Wine Writer (Norway)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"Ruby, garnet rim. Rich Haut-Brion, the estate typicity is barely discernible behind intense plums, terracotta, leather, anise, hint of vanilla, deep, dark style. Fresh acidity, grippy texture, almost biting tannins, very structured, intence. Younger than most 82 Mouton bottles I've tried. "

4y 7m ago

94p
 Juha Lihtonen, Sommelier (Finland)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"15 wines of the greatest Bordeaux vintage of the new era 1982 tasted, not impressed - is it me or the glasses that are not working"

5y 9m ago

94p
 Pekka Nuikki / Founder of the Fine Wine Magazines, Pro (Finland)  tasted  Château Haut-Brion 1982  ( Château Haut-Brion )

"Excellent event- Dom Perignon 1975 rose mg surprisingly fresh and vivid, at the end of the day, the best Haut Brion were 1989, 1961, 1945, 1982, ....36 vintages:)"

5y 9m ago

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