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Wine Description
The Story
A small parcel, barely 0.40 ha, replanted in 1991. The soil is heavy clay on a subsoil of stony limestone. It faces due east and is situated on a steep slope level with the southern village exit.Yields are regular and require careful monitoring as they are producing highly powerful wines, but inconsistent and with very ripe aromas and an almost aggressive minerality when young.
Less finesse to be found than in other Premiers Crus but still a wine to keep for a long time.
Appellation | Meursault Goutte d'Or Premier Cru |
Parcel | La Goutte d'Or |
Exposure | East |
Surface area | 0.39 ha |
Gradient | 5 to 15% |
Plantation dates | 1991 |
Rootstock | 161-49 |
Graft | clones |
Wine Information
Although, for over a century the Lafon Estate has been an established element of Burgundian history, its origins can be traced back to the south-west of France, and more specifically to the Tarn and Garonne.
It fact it was in Valence-sur-Agen that Jules Joseph Barthélémy Lafon was born on March 29th, 1864. His father, Charles Lafon was Land Registrar in the area and later in the Pyrenees.
Described as 'brilliant' by his professors, Jules completed his studies and joined the Public Registry Office where he was promoted to Inspector in 1887.
Key dates for reference:
* January 22nd,1894: Married Marie Boch whose family were wine merchants and estate owners in Meursault
* February, 1906: Resigned from The Public Registry in order to pursue a career in law.
* December 4th, 1918: Title of Papal Count conferred by the Holy See in recognition of his refusal to use his position of Inspector to oblige clerics to declare their fortunes.
* 1923: Whilst Mayor of Meursault, Jules Lafon revived the tradition of celebrating the end of the grape harvest with a meal. Although originally for the estate proprietor and his workers he also invited 35 of his friends to a banquet and the famous 'Paulée de Meursault' was born. It rapidly evolved to become, after the banquet at Clos Vougeot and the wine auctions at the Hospice of Beaune, the final stage of the 'Trois Glorieuses'. Nowadays, around 600 people take part each year and during the course of the proceedings, the literary prize of the same name is presented.
* 1931: Relinquished all responsibilities at the Dijon Courts of Law in order to devote his time exclusively to the estate.
* January 13th, 1940: Died at his home. Cf. tribute published in 'Le Miroir Dijonnais et de Bourgogne', n° 211, February, 1940.
The Estate as it exists today was largely established by Jules Lafon and it is important to distinguish the parcels originating from the Marie Boch inheritance (some of which have since been sold, particularly those of generic Burgundy), from other land bought or exchanged.
Montrachet
The vines were planted in two stages by Auguste and Pierre Morey. They are old, weak vines producing little (between 20 and 35 hl/ha). Badly affected by fan-leaf degeneration, they have improved considerably since the application of biodynamic preparations. The parcel is situated at the far south of Montrachet also facing south. The soil is fairly dark, quite deep and stony. It consistently produces wines rich in alcohol, balanced out by their marked acidity. A great deal of substance, these are wines to keep for a long time.
Clos de la Barre
Situated at the heart of the village, behind the house, this 2.1 ha parcel is a totally enclosed 'monopoly'. It faces due east on a slight slope, in shallow, clay soil on a subsoil of hard limestone. The upper reaches of the parcel has been replanted in april 2004 (half an hectare). 0.8 ha are 50 years old and 0.8 ha are between 30 and 25.
The wines it produces are rich and fairly mineral ,with a pronounced citrus fruit aroma when young and marked acidity on the finish. This Meursault should be kept for at least 5 to 7 years to allow it to settle down.
Charmes
This parcel was planted in three different stages, the oldest by Auguste Morey, the next by Pierre Morey and the third by Dominique Lafon.
Very well situated in the upper part of 'Les Charmes', the last vines at the south of the appellation next to ' Puligny Combettes'. It faces due east, is relatively deep clay and limestone (argilo-calcaire) with very crumbly rock deep down. The grapes ripen well and the wines are always powerful though never falling into the heavy wine bracket. Production is even, between 40 and 50 hl.
Genevrières
Two sections, 1/3 young and 2/3 old. Situated in the Genevrières-Dessus, practically next to the Perrières parcel facing due east. The yields are also rather irregular for older vines, (25 to 40 hl/ha), better for the younger vines, (45 to 55 hl/ha). The soil is poor and light, the wines produced have great finesse, with a roundness characteristic of Meursault.
The old vines have become more vigorous since conversion to biodynamics.
by Lafon