x
  • Country ranking ?

    2 357
  • Producer ranking ?

    19
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    now to 2035
  • Food Pairing

    Strong-flavoured soft-centred cheeses

The Story

Of all the villages of the Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis is one of the most fruitful in terms of the number of its Grands Crus. The Clos de Tart, which remains a solely-held entity, was founded by the Cistercians of Tart in 1141. Since that date, it has been owned by only three families. The Clos Saint-Denis came on the scene in the 11th century, thanks to the fortress of Vergy. The Clos de la Roche and Clos des Lambrays are both semi-monopoles and both have long histories which have involved some adjustment of boundaries between Climats. The Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis were awarded their Grand Cru appellations on 8 December 1936, Clos de Tart on 4 January 1939, and Clos des Lambrays 27 April 1981.
Facing east or slightly south of east at around 250 metres above sea-level, these Climats may be seen as a southerly extension of the Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin. First comes the Clos de la Roche, then Clos Saint-Denis followed by Clos des Lambrays, and finally Clos de Tart leading to Bonnes-Mares.

 

Limestone dominates in the Clos de la Roche where the soil is barely 30 cm deep with few pebbles but with large boulders which give the climat its name. In the Clos de Tart, scree-derived soils 40-120 cm thick cover the underlying limestone. The Upper part of the Clos des Lambrays is marly with claylimestone soil further down. The Clos Saint-Denis at the foot of the slope has pebble-free brown limestone soils which contain phosphorus (like Chambertin) and clay (like Musigny). 

Diversity is to be expected as each Grand Cru has its own personality. To the eye, this wine is plain ruby, sometimes a bit darker. Veiled in strawberry and violet, the Clos de Tart offers both robustness and charm. Quite tannic when young, it softens with age while gaining in complexity. The Clos des Lambrays is a true aristocrat, fully rounded in youth and with added depth and gravity as the years go by. The Clos Saint-Denis impresses by its finely–tuned nuances – this wine is the Mozart of the Côte de Nuits. The Clos de la Roche is firmer, deeper and more serious, closely akin to Chambertin. Aromas of humus and truffle are often precursors to notes of small red or black fruits. A small part of the BONNES-MARES appellation lies in this commune, but the greater part is in Chambolle-Musigny. (See Fact-sheet No. 5).

Intense and full-bodied when fully mature, these wines have a densely tannic texture and an aromatic richness which makes them a fitting - and equal - partner for feathered game. They are perfect, too, with a rib steak and, for lovers of Asian cuisine, adapt well to the aromatic intensity of glazed poultry. Their supple but virile tannins go well with veal (braised or in sauce) and with roast or braised lamb. One must also not forget their invaluable affinity for strong-flavoured soft-centred cheeses.

Serving temperatures : 12 to 13 °C for young wines, 15 to 16 °C for older wines.

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Written Notes

Dujac was the official wine of the afterparty, and people started pouring in from every which way. Winemakers and sommeliers seemed to be the bulk of the later revelers, including notables such as Lafon, Roumier and Mr. Seysses of Dujac himself, and there was even an Inspector sighting. It got so busy and so full that I missed sampling the three-liter of 1988 Dujac Clos de la Roche. Sheesh, thankfully I had a couple of bottles of those a month ago. There was actually a bunch of other wines to taste through, but I couldn’t really focus on more than the last couple of magnums, beginning with an outstanding 2002 Dujac Clos de la Roche. This blew me away; after so many great and legendary wines, the ’02 didn’t blink. It was absolutely delicious, deep and sweet with purply and edgy fruit. There was a sprinkle of milk chocolate to this delicious wine. This was 2002 Burgundy at its best (96M).
  • 96p

There are flowers, earth and coffee notes on the nose of this highly heralded vintage. There is less of that telltale soil expression here arguably, but it is appealingly lush and lavish as it opens, seamlessly sweet, abundant mouth perfume, nicely textured, rose petal and spices past the mid palate. It has impressive structure, ripe tannins, and even its pervasive sex appeal has the underlying Dujac finesse underpinning it. Red fruit and herbs on the finish, which is quite lush, yet fine and deep, and admirably persistent. This is a more robust expression of Clos de la Roche, still enticing, if perhaps not as “complete” as an expression of the terroir. 93 Points+

  • 93p

Information

Origin

Morey Saint Denis, Burgundy

Vintage Quality

Above Average

Value For Money

Good

Investment potential

Below Average

Fake factory

None

Drinking temperature

14

Other wines from this producer

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers

Charmes-Chambertin

Clos St-Denis Grand Cru

Echézeaux

Gevrey-Chambertin aux Combottes

Marc de Bourgogne

Morey Saint-Denis Aligoté

Morey-Saint-Denis Les Monts Luisants

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes

Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts

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