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The Clos Sainte Hune comes from the limestone grand cru of Rosacker in Hunawihr, just down the road from the Trimbach headquarters in Ribeauvillé. I have always contended that fine old riesling is the best wine to drink with smoked salmon, and so I picked out one of my last bottles of the 1985 for Christmas. Fully mature, of course, but with splendid energy and depth. Very delicious indeed. While more and more fine white Burgundies, even those not prematurely oxidised, seem to give up the ghost after a dozen or so vintages, it is gratifying to be able to worship at the other end of a glass of a vigorous (almost) thirty year old riesling.