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Viinin Kuvailu
The Story
Batàr is a name that has evolved over time. Between 1988 and 1991, the wine was called Bâtard-Pinot and was a blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Between 1992 and 1994, the name was Bâtard (without ‘-Pinot’), because Chardonnay had been added to the blend. In 1995 the name was changed to Batàr, in order to avoid confusion with French AOCs of Burgundy, whose names contain the word ‘Bâtard’ (Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet).
The label was designed by Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, and features exclusive artwork from Italian painter Bernardino Luino.
The typeface Simona was designed by Jane Patterson and John Downer for Querciabella’s exclusive and proprietary use.
Appellation: Toscana IGT
First vintage: 1988
Grapes: Chardonnay & Pinot Bianco
Viticulture: Plant-based biodynamics
Certifications: Vegan, Organic
Average yield (wine): 25 hl/ha
Vinification: Barrel-fermented, 9 months in French oak
Annual production: 15,000 bottles
Average alcohol content: 13.5% vol.
Vineyards:
Batàr originates from vineyards situated close to the winery in Ruffoli, Greve in Chianti, between 350–600 m above sea level.
The Chardonnay comes from two distinct sites: the south-facing slopes of Casaocci Sud and the winery’s higher vineyard, Il Pallonaio. At 350 m a.sl., the galestro soils of the Casaocci Sud vineyard are flakey, hardened schist-rich clays that confer ideal fruit concentration and intense floral notes. Reaching an elevation of 600 m a.s.l., the galestro soils of Il Pallonaio, with their high presence of sandstone, give the Chardonnay grapes distinct, flinty gun-smoke minerality, lime zing, freshness, and tension.
Batàr’s Pinot Blanc grows on the cooler north-facing slopes beneath our cellar at 400 m a.s.l. where the galestro has broken down into its clay and schist components. These denser soils add to the wine its characteristic textural richness, creaminess and volume along with pleasant citrus notes.
Background:
“A white Tuscan wine that is just as prized as the top red wines of the region”, Batàr enjoys the cult following of an iconic wine.
Widely recognised by critics around the world as the ultimate white Super Tuscan and one of Italy’s greatest white wines, the illustrious Hugh Johnson once described it as “a dream of a white” worth comparing with a Burgundy Grand Cru. In the words of Jancis Robinson MW OBE more like a “particularly successful Corton-Charlemagne than Bâtard-Montrachet”.
Reminiscent of Burgundy, no doubt, yet with unmistakable Tuscan authenticity. Vintage after vintage, Querciabella’s forward-thinking winemaking has evolved beyond the hedonistic idea of succeeding at growing foreign white grapes, albeit noble, in a stronghold of red wines to focus on expressing a specific sense of place. Clearly, Batàr’s inherent vitality and classic minerality derive from the high elevation vineyards of Ruffoli and the Galestro soil typical of Chianti Classico’s best sites.
The legendary ability of Batàr to defy age and improve over time requires a careful combination of hand-selected grapes of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, a punctual micro-vinification regime and patient maturation in barrel. The extended time spent on lees in premium French barriques allows the individual lots to develop their best expression. Only when optimal élevage is complete, the final blend comes together through extensive sampling. Further ageing in bottle, before its release, puts the seal on the layered texture that defines Batàr’s proverbial mouthfeel.
Since 2010, much gentler lees contact and reduced reliance on new oak have defined a distinct freshness and brought to the fore citrus and exotic fruit, with creamy notes now providing a beguiling background.
No animal products or byproducts are used in the production of this wine, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Vuosikerta 1996
Italy Vintage Report by Tb: 1996 was an excellent continuation of the preceding year. Temperatures exceeding 30°C at the beginning of June accelerated and balanced the start of the blooming period. The summer growing season enjoyed ideal conditions, in which the grapes were allowed to ripen slowly and evenly. The autumn rains did not present any mould problems due to the cool temperatures. Nebbiolo grapes were thick-skinned, very concentrated and ripe. The 1996 Barolos and Barbarescos are abundantly fruity, supple and robust wines, whose quality is on a par with the 1990 vintage. In Tuscany Chianti and Montalcino enjoyed extraordinary success. Montepulciano did not do quite as well, but producers in Tuscany considered 1996 to be nearly every bit as good as it was in 1995. Starting with this vintage Angelo Gaja classified his legendary single-vineyard Barbarescos and Barolos as IGTs. Gaja said that the reason for doing this was his desire to differentiate his previous modern single-vintage wines from his family’s pride, the traditional Barbaresco, whose importance he wanted to emphasise as his only DOCG wine. The venerable Chianti producer, Castello di Ama decided that from 1996 on it would focus on the production of Chianti Classico, placing less emphasis on its single-vineyard wines, the Bellavista and La Casuccia.
The wines are still maturing very nicely, even if the Chiantis should, in my opinion, be enjoyed soon due to their sheer deliciousness.