Bodegas Mauro

"The discovery of something special is always a moving experience for the scrupulous wine merchant. It is by accident we came across Bodegas Mauro. Close to the famous vineyards belonging to the Bodegas Vega Sicilia, a small hut by the road advertises a tasting of wines from Bodegas Mauro. Usually one pays little attention to roadside publicity, but imagine our surprise on tasting a wine with all the class, elegance and complexity of a Bordeaux Classed Growth; almost ready to drink and available at a fraction of the price. 

Further research showed that Mauro had already been 'discovered' in Spain and availability, apart from the few cases sold by the roadside, was almost as restricted as the famed Vega Sicilia. Nevertheless, the quality was such to merit attention. A meeting with the co-proprietor in a small bar in Tudela gave us more background. Luciano Suarez, an architect specializing in the restauration of Romanesque churches along the old pilgrim road to Santiago, is passionate about good food and wine. He created Mauro as a hobby with the objective of producing the finest wine possible from the old vineyards near Tudela on the Duero river. His career as an architect has included the renovation of the famous Cathedral in Burgos and the Monastry of "Los Silos" nearby.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, when nearby Valladolid was capital of Spain and seat of the Spanish kings and queens, the Tudela district was the city's main source for red wines. In 1562 King Philip II went as far as passing ordinances decreeing that wines from Tudela del Duero be exempt from taxation due to their exceptional quality. Today, most of the vineyards have disappeared and the town's rabbit warren of cellars lie abandoned. Fortunately, renewed interest in the Duero came after the creation of the Ribera del Duero DO, in 1982. There is still much planting to be done, but already the district is making great strides with quality and prestige. 

Despite the publicity, Mauro has made the decision not to be part of the new DO. In order to achieve the standards they expect of themselves, they prefer to work without the restrictions involved. As for the brands created by Antinori in Italy, the name Mauro is establishing itself without the help of a local appellation. The intense, smooth, rich style coupled with elegance, charm and polish put Mauro in a league of its own, and bottles grace the tables of the leading restaurants in Spain, the Prime Minister and the King."

The majority of vineyards are on north facing slopes at 780 metres above sea level, on the left bank of the Duero river near the village of Santibanez. Others, including Terreus, are located on the right bank near Tudela.
These vineyards were excluded from the Ribera del Duero DO for obscure historical reasons connected to local politics. However, climatic influeneces are the same as 10 km down the road (where the DO officially starts) and studies show the soil to be on a par with the very best found in the Ribera del Duero. 

The original Bodega fills a maze of attractive old town houses in the heart of Tudela del Duero (the earliest dating back to 1680) with thick walls and large underground cellars, ideal for the ageing of fine red wine. The new bodega is located just outside town, with sufficient space to manage fermentations and blending, and the first year of ageing.

On arrival at the winery, the grapes are left overnight in a purpose-built cold room. This ensures a slow, delayed start to fermentation, extraction of fine tannins pre-fermentation and great aromatic purity. All vinifications are in stainless steel tanks, variety by variety, parcel by parcel. The extraction regime and cuvaison time are adapted to the particular needs of each parcel and vintage. Malolactic fermentation partly in tank, partly in barrel.

Crianza : 16 months in barrel (20% new oak) of which three quarters are French and one quarter American oak.
VS : 30-33 months in new and second passage casks (French & American)
Terreus : 32 months in new French oak barrels.

Finesse and elegance are the words that first spring to mind when describing Mauro. Luciano Suarez has written of them : "Our wines have the colour of black cherries with a hint of violet; their bouquet is rich, vinous and marked by a subtle marriage of varietal blackberry fruit and overtones of smoky French oak picked up during the course of maturation. they feel very complete in the mouth and are beautifully balanced. Both the richness of fruit and the wood scents apparent on the nose come through gently but with excellent length on the palate to give a remarkably elegant finish."

This is accurate and suffice it to add that although drinkable on release, Mauro continues to develop and improve for many years. It is a very special wine of great complexity and polish; ideal with the delicious local grilled Castillian lamb.