Guigal La Turque 2018 is pure perfection in a glass. So persistent. Very dense, with flavors of smoked bacon, coffee bean, cracked pepper and licorice and it hits the palate with a massively concentrated decadence. Finishes with superb clarity, spiciness and length, leaving a smoky mineral note behind. Should age marvelously and slowly.

Château Haut-Brion Blanc 2021 / 55% Semillon + 45% Semillon. Great intensity of green apple, pear and pineapple, acidity, crispiness, structure and length. Vibrant. Long lemony aftertaste. Sheer class. 98+p.

2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal / This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the “wrong” side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It’s an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle.

After two years without a fair, Prowein opened its doors on Mai 15, 2022. It was wonderful to see people "live and in colour", having good discussions and feel rather well. The fair has made everything, that visitors could feel at ease. Large corridors and therefore no "traffic jams" in the alleys were creating a very pleasant atmosphere. Although I am not a big fan of tasting on fairs, as the situation is often not ideal, this edition of Prowein with the more relaxed atmosphere invited to discover some novelties.

Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner “Kreutles” Smaragd 2021, 92 points

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2021 / This has so much depth and power, with complex notes of flint, oyster shell, white pepper, dried mango, lemon, papaya, apricot stone and chalk. Medium-to full-bodied. Bright, yet creamy. It’s so long and concentrated. Wait and see. 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon, 5% sauvignon gris. From organically grown grapes. 98-99

Château Cos d’Estournel 2021 96–97 points / Deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, blackcurrant brambly aromas with inky graphite notes. Superbly concentrated wine with deep-set pure blackcurrant, blackberry confit fruits, fine graphite/ vigorous textures, superb mid-palate density and underlying malty/ spicy oak. Very chocolaty with a leafy tannin plume. Superb fruit definition, complexity and precision. 64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot. 55% new French oak barriques. 12.74% alc

2020  Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc / With the pop of grapefruit, white peach, lemon peel, flowers, orange rind and honeysuckle in the nose, and a creamy, sweet, fresh, juicy, slightly honeyed, lush, white peach and citrus finish, you have all the ingredients needed for a luscious, white Bordeaux wine. The wine was produced from a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. 97  Pts

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Margaret River Miamup 2021 – The tradition West Aussie white blend, which used to be known as ‘Classic Dry Whites’, done superbly here. Harvested from individual blocks, coming from the more southerly vineyards as the team believe that these provide the high natural acidity and strong varietal intensity that they require. These are vinified individually, all cool fermented in stainless steel tanks. Some select batches were finished in oak, to add that touch of complexity. 

At this early stage, it is the character of the Sauv Blanc which dominates. Quite tropical with a hint of mango and pear. There is gooseberry and some citrus as well. Good crunchy acidity here, a refreshing and cleansing style. There is good length with excellent persistence. Now and for the next two to three years. 90.

1988 Bordeaux vintage tasting: Château Margaux 1988/Black fruits the nose has brooding richness the palate depth with black cherry and cassis backed by dark chocolate and liquorice. There is mid freshness balance the tannins integrated discreet but supporting. Depth of the fruit at the back the rich fruit gives way to freshness the finish is remarkably light and elegant.

2021 Château Latour / Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, dark fruit, very fruit driven nose at this stage, tight knit. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, detailed, blackberries and cassis, detailed, intense and layered, nuanced, energetic, superb balance, incredible length. Goes on and on. 13,1 % alcohol. 96-98

The 1988 DRC La Tache told everyone immediately that it was here for business. There was some creamy, sweet spice, with lots of dusty tomato on the vine and some white pepper and a twist of lime. This was a margarita of a palate, in fact! Speaking of the palate, there was so much density and richness by comparison to the previous two. Rich and leathery, it had great vitamin flavors on its thick and long finish. I was flip-flopping between 96 and 97 points (96+).