Château Valandraud tasting - all bottled vintages 1991-2016.

Château Lafite 2016 / This offers the best of both sides of Pauillac, with a deep, deep well of dark currant, fig, blackberry and black cherry paste flavors forming a lush side while a series of I-beams made of graphite and iron provide the rigid structure. The two sides meld, pulling in extra sweet tobacco, smoldering cast iron, juniper and savory notes on the finish, leaving a mouthwatering feel. A real stunner. Best from 2025 through 2045.

"Solaire" is the new born child of the Champagne Frerejean family. A pure Blanc de Blancs made only with Grand Cru wines. 50% of the assemblage is Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée from the vintage 2016. The other 50% consist of Chardonnay reserve wines from the vintages 2012, 2014 and 2015. 20% of the reserve wines have been aged in old oak barrels. The Mise en cave was August 7, 2017 and the wine has recently been disgorged.

Peay 2012 Pinot Noir Pomarium Sonoma Coast / Nick Peay said, “Our style is somewhere between Burgundy and California. The major difference is that we’re not on limestone. The second big factor is that it’s cold here in July and August, but it’s warm in Burgundy.” (Frankly, Burgundy’s warmth and chill factors vacillate a lot, even in mid- to late-summer.) As such, Peay doesn’t use whole cluster; the “jalapeño” of stems isn’t a character he, his brother and his sister-in-law like. This pale and crisp but dense and muscular wine delivers black plum skin, blackberries, licorice and forest floor.

Garrus, the iconic Rosé from the Côtes de Provence, was a milestone in the history of wine. Treating a rosé like a great burgundian white wine with fermentation and ageging in small oak barrels over a period of 10 months with classic battonage results in stunning wines of class and elegance. The 2019 vintage shows two wines which I have never tasted better before. What a treat!

Château Suduiraut 2019 /Composed of 94% Semillon and 6% Sauvignon Blanc harvested from the 17th of September to the 30th of October (three selective pickings in total), the 2019 Suduiraut is aging for 16-20 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. The alcohol came in at 14.1% with 130 grams per liter of residual sugar. Pale to medium lemon-gold colored, the nose is oh-so-tantalizing with intense notes of candied ginger, beeswax, fenugreek and crystalized citrus peel over a core of pineapple upside-down cake, honey coated almonds, pink grapefruit and peach preserves with a waft of musk perfume. The rich, concentrated palate explodes with spicy fireworks in the mouth, complementing the the exotic fruit and peach preserves layers, with a racy line to lend just enough lift, finishing with epic length and depth. 94-96 points

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard is a powerful wine. Beguiling aromatics make a strong opening statement. Pine, rosemary, mint, sweet red cherry, pomegranate and a touch of new oak give the wine its bright, lifted feel. Even with considerable air, and also taking into account the personality of the year, the 2013 Martha's remains closed down and not at all expressive. My impression is that this could have been a materially better wine.

Henschke Hill of Grace 1982 / Deep brick red colour. Sweet ripe plum jam, prune, licorice and exotic floral aromas. Spicy and gamy with chocolate, leather and sweet earthy notes, violets, sweet ripe cherries and plums. Intense, rich and concentrated with a silky long finish.

The 1982 vintage was very good, both from quality and quantity aspects. Yields were up, some varieties by 50% and more. Good winter rains and a mild spring ensured good fruit set. The summer was dry and generally mild except for a severe heatwave just prior to vintage. Fortunately the extremely wet winter provided sufficient soil moisture for the vines during the hot spell. Late rains at the end of April brought the vintage to a rapid halt with grapes splitting badly, causing some fruit loss.

Big Bürklin-Wolf verticale.

Penfolds Grange 1990 / Destined to be one of the greatest Granges. A beautifully weighted and concentrated bouquet, with seamless fruit and oak; masses of dark cherries and plum. In the mouth a superb wine; while the fruit is opulent, it is not excessively so; indeed there is a touch of near austerity to the fine tannins to give the wine both character and balance. The iron fist in a velvet glove.

Sassicaia 2017 / To recap my assessment, and with the memory of the 100-point 2016 vintage so fresh in my mind, I would give this wine a seven out of 10 in terms of aromas, a five out of 10 in terms of mid-palate, and an eight out of 10 in terms of structure. Another way to read those conclusions is as follows: The 2017 Sassicaia was expertly built to withstand a long aging future, yet only time will tell if the beauty of the bouquet will evolve at the same pace. This fascinating wine magically captures the hallmarks of cool-temperature winemaking in one of the hottest vintages in recent years. Vintners, not vintage, won this round.

Weingut Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfullung 2005 / Medium yellow-green. Intense dried fruit aroma with a hint of smoked bacon on the fascinating nose. Opulent, sweet papaya and wet pebbles are found in a full-bodied wine that is given shape and lift by refreshing acidity. I'd wait on this one for a year or two. Drink 2008 to 2015.