A Vertical of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1959-2014 /

A remarkable tasting of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne offered a rare look at one of Champagne’s most iconic Blanc de Blancs across more than five decades. Produced only in exceptional vintages and sourced from Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyards of the Côte des Blancs, Comtes is celebrated for its elegance, mineral precision and extraordinary ageing potential.

The oldest wines, including 1959 and 1961, displayed remarkable vitality, revealing complex layers of brioche, honeyed citrus and roasted almond while retaining impressive freshness. Mature vintages from the late 1960s and 1970s showed beautifully evolved nutty and pastry-like complexity.

Among the modern releases, 1988, 2004 and 2008 stood out for their structure, purity and tension. The tasting also featured several vintages of Comtes Rosé, with the outstanding 1996 showing exceptional vibrancy and depth.

Across every decade, the wines confirmed the enduring signature of Comtes de Champagne: finesse, chalky minerality and timeless longevity.

Vinexpo Paris was hold in early February 2026. Some new wines, which have attracted my attention.

Burgundy 2015 + many others / Méo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot 2015 / Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blackberries, spices, ripe and rich nose, deep. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, structured, firm, a slight herbal note far back both on nose and palate. 93

The arrivage tasting of the 2023 vintage from Bordeaux has confirmed the tasting results from the “en primeur tasting” in spring 2024.

Brunello di Montalcino vintage 2020 Part II / Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli 2020

CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA. Vineyard Filari Lunghi, soils predominantly of Galestro, an imposing wine,intense and juicy. Pomegranate on the nose, hints of chinotto, touches of

eucalyptus and wild iris. The drink has a citrus and balsamic appeal, with red

fruits and balsamic notes. Great length. 98+

Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2016 / A masterpiece in a glass, this Montrachet reveals unparalleled elegance and complexity. The nose is a symphony of ripe stone fruits—peach and apricot—intertwined with fresh citrus zest, delicate white flowers, and a touch of honeyed brioche. On the palate, it is profound yet ethereal, with a creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity. Layers of minerality unfold, evoking crushed oyster shells and chalky finesse, while subtle hints of hazelnut and fine spices linger endlessly. The finish is transcendent, a testament to its grandeur and potential for decades of aging. Simply divine.

Tb's Monthly 50 wines tastings: New releases from Napa Valley / Darioush Signature Chardonnay 2023 / The 2023 growing season in Napa Valley was characterized by a generally balanced and steady progression, with cooler southern Napa and Los Carneros sites benefitting from morning fog and breezy conditions that preserved vibrant acidity in white grapes while achieving full phenolic ripeness. These conditions helped Chardonnay maintain freshness, clarity of fruit and aromatic precision. Darioush’s cooler-climate blocks naturally lend the 2023 Signature Chardonnay its bright profile and nuanced complexity. 

Tasting Note:

Pale straw with green highlights. Aromas of lemon zest, crisp Bosc pear and citrus blossom are layered with subtle white flowers and hints of clove and nutmeg. On the palate the wine is medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity and layered flavors of green apple, lemon curd and honeyed pear, framed by a touch of minerality and gentle oak spice. The texture is smooth and refined, leading to a long, balanced finish that marries freshness with richness.

The 1978 Roumier Bonnes Mares once again delivered an immaculate experience. It had a smoky nose full of deep, dark purple fruits. This oily red was a 99 point wine from the get-go with its smorgasbord of delicious fruits. It still felt so young but was so open, with great length and grit. This wine had impeccable concentration and zip, and it lingered on my palate effortlessly and endlessly (99).

Perfect 100 points Graham 80 year old Tawny Port – Only 600 bottles of the 80y old were bottled and the shelf price will be well above 1.000 GBP. For Charles Symington the blending process was very emotional, as his father, Peter Symington, was born in 1944. When turning 80, Peter very much enjoyed this special Port. Dark red colour with intense reflections and a green-gold rim. Gentle and perfectly balanced Douro Bake aromas on the nose with coffee, dried orange and tobacco. Complex, dense herbal notes in the bouquet, chocolate, malt, tobacco leaves and caramel, floral notes and a hint of chocolate and toffee in the background. Incredibly complex notes on the palate. Herbal mix, chocolate, tea, malt, honey, tobacco. Perfectly long, balanced and complex finish with many overlapping layers. A perfect Port! 100

Henschke Hill of Grace 2021 /Medium deep crimson. Expressive raspberry, blackberry, cassis, hint elderberry/violet/ sage aromas with mocha, marzipan notes. Elegant yet powerful, dense but buoyant palate with ample blackberry pastille, blackcurrant, raspberry fruits, fine supple/ grainy tannins, lovely mid palate volume/ richness and superbly balanced grilled almond, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes claret firm with a featherweight plume of bittersweet tannins. A beguiling and lasting landmark Hill of Grace vintage with wonderful definition, vinosity and torque."

Tim Smith Barossa Mataro 2023 / For all the hype, Mataro/Mourvedre from the Barossa is still a grumpy thing. It’s the dark, moody, reductive, fortified grape that helps fill out blends and only enjoyed a solo career in recent years. But Tim Smith has Barossan Mataro sorted. Old vines, old oak, and Tim’s knack for nailing texture means these wines just work. Same again with the Tim Smith Wines Mataro 2023. Sourced from two vineyards, 70 and 140 years old, on the Barossa Valley ‘floor’, and this has that old vine complexity on full show. Cola, ‘Provençal herbs’ as Tim says on the label, and this licoricey black fruit endless depth without a sense of heaviness. Instead, here’s a real medium feel to it – this isn’t an unapproachable dark and heavy thing at all. The palate just sings on through in that cola, dark chocolate and savoury grainy vibe. It’s a hit.

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1929 / An absolutely sensational bottle—youthful, highly elegant, and perfectly balanced between acidity and sweetness. Delicate, slightly salty caramel, malt, dried figs, and molasses weave together in a masterpiece of flavor. Simply brilliant—off the charts! 20+ points