The 1996 Salon, a famous blanc de blancs. Still so fresh and young, this will outlive most of us. My notes were simple: “Lord, take me now. 100.” Okay, not terribly helpful technically, but you get the gist. Not sure champagne gets better, but obviously it does get different. As an aside, a week later, I had the chance to enjoy a 1990 Salon. Another great vintage and great champagne, but much more advanced and mature. Great stuff, but I’d be drinking it sooner than later. The 1996? Any time you like.

Dom Pérignon 2003 P2 / Medium deep golden colour with rather small and vivid bubbles. Pure and intense nose, fine development without oxidation, roasted pine and pistachio nuts with confit de citron, fresh peach and brioche notes. The palate is ample and rather opulent with a rounded acidity yet with a nice fresh bite from fine extract, mild creaminess, nice layers of finely spicy yellow fruit, nougat and nutty flavours with a long and embracing finish. 95p

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 2007 / Bright garnet. So incredibly transparent, nuanced, layered, like sheets of the finest silk, very tender, yet powerful. The silk wraps around and hides every other sensation than this wine, in such a delicate way. Subdued yet flamboyant. Ethereal. Spices, flower garden, dried and fresh fruits, exotic, wide and focused, pure as none. Fresh acidity, few and ripe tannins, almost watery palate in its uttermost transparent state, playful like a shy child playing in the corner, you barely notice it, but you hear it's laughter. Elusive like a beautiful butterfly in summer. And all of this was written during the aftertaste of the first sip alone. This is magic, and I hope I can taste it once more. It gives length a new meaning. Most will not be impressed by it, I'm sure, but like something transparent and tender from Mozart, take away one note, and it would not be a masterpiece. 100

Henchke Hill of Grace 2015 /"Effortlessly long, smooth and supple, this polished and uber-restrained shiraz unfolds a musky, peppery and faintly meaty bouquet of mulberries, cassis, dark plums, cedar/vanilla oak and paprika backed by suggestions of cola and sweet floral notes. Flaunting its rare restraint and finesse, it reveals layers of pristine translucently clear dark red, blue and black berry flavours supported by a refined, ultra-fine spine of loose-knit tannins and knit with creamy, cedary, cigarboxy oak, building in weight and lasting forever. A very different, distinctive Hill of Grace of exceptional quality and charm."

The 1966 Heitz Vineyard Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was an epic bottle, a testament to the heights that Napa can achieve, pun intended!  There was a minty and sexy nose that seeped caramel and eucalyptus.  There was this great herbal complexity that was so expressive.  Insane expression!  ‘So good’ was written over and over in my notes.  The palate was creamy, long and smooth with tasty and fresh caramel flavors.  Divine stuff (98).

Rare wine tasting with wines like DRC Conti 1900 and 1923, Margaux 1911, Cheval 1929, Montrose 1892 etc.

A tasting of excellent Champagnes of small houses and vintners as well as high quality Crémants from all over France was a thrilling experience with some great surprises and discoveries.  

Niepoort Redoma Reserva Branco 2021 / Mineral, lemon, lime and flint on the nose. Reductive and fascinating. Medium to full body with creamy texture. Lemon rind and curd. Some nougat and stone. Flavorful and driven finish. Drink or hold. 94p

A series of sparkling wines from Italy was presenting some excellent surprises.

Large Roederer Cristal tasting: Cristal 1961 was one of the best - it  presents a captivating golden hue with fine, persistent bubbles. On the nose, it reveals an exquisite bouquet of matured notes including honey, toasted almonds, and brioche, interwoven with hints of dried apricot and candied citrus peel. The palate is remarkably elegant and balanced, showcasing a rich tapestry of flavors—ripe stone fruits, caramelized apples, and a touch of butterscotch—underpinned by a subtle minerality. The creamy texture and vibrant acidity culminate in a long, harmonious finish, leaving a lingering impression of finesse and complexity. This vintage epitomizes the pinnacle of aged Champagne, displaying both depth and sophistication.

“This vintage Krug 2008 is painfully slow to age. Its sumptuous nose comes with layers of baked apple, bitter almonds, smoke, dried flowers, acacia honey and buttery biscuits. The palate is viscous with oily qualities, yet tightly knit and stylishly refreshed by the wine’s accentuated, steely acidity. The nose is developing, but the palate has hardly moved since release. It comes with the structure for ageing, deserving further time. 

Bordeaux white and sweet wines 2023 vintage: Château Climens 2023: This is the second vintage under new ownership. It is a staggeringly stylish wine with great finesse and richness, a sophisticated touch, great sweetness, and remarkable acidity. 98p.