2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal / This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the “wrong” side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It’s an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle.

After two years without a fair, Prowein opened its doors on Mai 15, 2022. It was wonderful to see people "live and in colour", having good discussions and feel rather well. The fair has made everything, that visitors could feel at ease. Large corridors and therefore no "traffic jams" in the alleys were creating a very pleasant atmosphere. Although I am not a big fan of tasting on fairs, as the situation is often not ideal, this edition of Prowein with the more relaxed atmosphere invited to discover some novelties.

Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner “Kreutles” Smaragd 2021, 92 points

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2021 / This has so much depth and power, with complex notes of flint, oyster shell, white pepper, dried mango, lemon, papaya, apricot stone and chalk. Medium-to full-bodied. Bright, yet creamy. It’s so long and concentrated. Wait and see. 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon, 5% sauvignon gris. From organically grown grapes. 98-99

Lafleur 1950 / This was a fascinating bottle. It was in fine form,  and the level was top-shoulder. Decanted only 45 minutes. Light and feeble colour. Exposed and very seductive, fragrant, candied sweet bouquet. Flawless and silky, but also with a firm backbone of minerals. Rich and soft wine with drying fruit that echoes chocolate and coffee. Has lots of complexity, but requires fast drinking. Long and remaining at the end. Sensational, old-style refined Lafleur. 

2020  Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc / With the pop of grapefruit, white peach, lemon peel, flowers, orange rind and honeysuckle in the nose, and a creamy, sweet, fresh, juicy, slightly honeyed, lush, white peach and citrus finish, you have all the ingredients needed for a luscious, white Bordeaux wine. The wine was produced from a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. 97  Pts

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Margaret River Miamup 2021 – The tradition West Aussie white blend, which used to be known as ‘Classic Dry Whites’, done superbly here. Harvested from individual blocks, coming from the more southerly vineyards as the team believe that these provide the high natural acidity and strong varietal intensity that they require. These are vinified individually, all cool fermented in stainless steel tanks. Some select batches were finished in oak, to add that touch of complexity. 

At this early stage, it is the character of the Sauv Blanc which dominates. Quite tropical with a hint of mango and pear. There is gooseberry and some citrus as well. Good crunchy acidity here, a refreshing and cleansing style. There is good length with excellent persistence. Now and for the next two to three years. 90.

1988 Bordeaux vintage tasting: Château Margaux 1988/Black fruits the nose has brooding richness the palate depth with black cherry and cassis backed by dark chocolate and liquorice. There is mid freshness balance the tannins integrated discreet but supporting. Depth of the fruit at the back the rich fruit gives way to freshness the finish is remarkably light and elegant.

2021 Château Latour / Ruby. Blackberries, cassis, dark fruit, very fruit driven nose at this stage, tight knit. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, detailed, blackberries and cassis, detailed, intense and layered, nuanced, energetic, superb balance, incredible length. Goes on and on. 13,1 % alcohol. 96-98

The 1988 DRC La Tache told everyone immediately that it was here for business. There was some creamy, sweet spice, with lots of dusty tomato on the vine and some white pepper and a twist of lime. This was a margarita of a palate, in fact! Speaking of the palate, there was so much density and richness by comparison to the previous two. Rich and leathery, it had great vitamin flavors on its thick and long finish. I was flip-flopping between 96 and 97 points (96+).

‘It is striking that Winston Churchill 2013 is now lighter and more shy at launch than they used to be in the past. On the other hand, they seem to end up very close to the older vintages after a few years of their own storage. This slow development with Verzenay as such a clear mineral-rich stringent protagonist is noticeable not least in the glass. Just like in 2012, the wine is much more impressive and rounded rich a few hours after opening the bottle. Then a little cautiously, the whole Winston bouquet appears in the form of baguette, dark chocolate, strawberry jam, olives, gunpowder smoke, black coffee and sweet gravenstein apples. Drink after 2028.’

90(94)p

Schloss Gobelsburg Tradition 50 years Cuvée / Light golden colour. Pure and intense nose offering fresh stone fruit, sweet citrus, some lees derived creamy notes, fine oak, toasted hints and plenty of fine spice. The palate is warm and unctruous yet remaining fresh with crunchy and vigorous fruit, fine extract and very mild tannin contributing to structure and length, very long with great depth, purity and style.