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Viinin Kuvailu
The Story
Biondi-Santi also thinks that Brunello is one of the world’s longest-lasting wines:
“Even though Italian wine legislation requires that Brunello be matured in barrels for two years and in bottles for four to six months, we allow our wine to age for five to six years before bottling. We traditionally use Slovenian barrels, which further enhance the longevity of the wine. Then we cellar the Brunello in bottles for at least another two years before bringing them to market. Indeed, I doubt very much that, even after all this, the Riserva would be at all drinkable for at least another ten years, because it thrives on its magnificent reputation for longevity. A majority of our wines are sold in Italy, as they become extremely expensive once exported. In the price competition with top French wines, they invariably come in second place."
Biondi-Santi’s annual production volume is approximately 80,000 bottles, which are produced exclusively from the estate’s vineyards: 60,000 bottles of Brunello Annata and, in exceptionally good years, approximately 6,000 bottles of Riserva. The Brunello Annata is a direct descendant of the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and is also produced during years which enjoy good, but not extraordinary, weather conditions. The Rosso di Montalcino is made using the same grapes as the Bruneelo, but is sold without going through the same ageing process as its big brothers. Despite this, the Rosso is a very highly esteemed wine in Italy, obtaining the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) classification in 1984.
Wine Information
Biondi-Santi is Italy’s most mysterious and enduring wine. Its secret of “eternal life” intrigues me, as do its astronomical prices, which can only be compared to those paid for Romanée-Conti and Pétrus. As recently as a decade ago it was still possible to buy first growth Biondi-Santi vintages 1888 and 1891 from anywhere between 8,000 and 10,000 euros. Today, the asking price for good vintages, such as the 1955 or 1964, is much higher than that for the legendary Latour 1961 or 1959 Pétrus. The year before last a bottle of Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was auctioned for 14,000 euros, which is the highest price ever paid for an Italian wine. What is the secret behind these prices?
During the first 57 years of the estate’s history, Ferrucio and his son Tancredi only made four vintages of Riserva: 1888, 1891, 1925 and 1945. An approach unheard of at that time, not to mention a daring financial move, limiting the number of vintages turned out to be an exceedingly astute business decision, whilst creating the legend of the world's rarest and most enduring Italian wine. Italy’s most famous wine author, Luigi Veronelli believes that a 50-year maturation period is ideal for the Biondi-Santi Riserva. He explains:
“I’m positive that the Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva is, in its own perfect way, an exceptionally long-lasting wine. I intend on leaving a majority of the bottles in my personal stock of 1955 unopened for at least another twenty years.”
Biondi-Santi also thinks that his Riserva is one of the world’s longest-lasting wines:
“Even though Italian wine legislation requires that Brunello be matured in barrels for two years and in bottles for four to six months, we allow our wine to age for five to six years before bottling. We traditionally use Slovenian barrels, which further enhance the longevity of the wine. Then we cellar the Brunello in bottles for at least another two years before bringing them to market. Indeed, I doubt very much that, even after all this, the Riserva would be at all drinkable for at least another ten years, because it thrives on its magnificent reputation for longevity. A majority of our wines are sold in Italy, as they become extremely expensive once exported. In the price competition with top French wines, they invariably come in second place."
Biondi-Santi’s annual production volume is approximately 80,000 bottles, which are produced exclusively from the estate’s vineyards: 60,000 bottles of Brunello Annata and, in exceptionally good years, approximately 6,000 bottles of Riserva. The Brunello Annata is a direct descendant of the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and is also produced during years which enjoy good, but not extraordinary, weather conditions. The Rosso di Montalcino is made using the same grapes as the Bruneelo, but is sold without going through the same ageing process as its big brothers. Despite this, the Rosso is a very highly esteemed wine in Italy, obtaining the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) classification in 1984.
