THE TIMELESS ALLURE OF LATOUR: Château Latour tasting Part I /  Chateau Latour 1887

Was it really what it purported to be? Frederic couldn’t be definitive. Neal Martin said it reminded him in terms of palate profile of wines from the same era from various tastings. The type of glass was consistent with the age. It had come “authenticated” by people who work with the most draconian critic in that genre. Finally, the table’s conclusion was: “Who cares?” Evidently old wine, consistent in profile with Latour, delicious, authenticated as far as it can be. “Shut up and enjoy it!” as one of our party said. And what market is there for faking a relatively unknown vintage like “1887?”

 You have spice, coffee and chocolate on the nose. On the palate, cassis and cherries, some hints of ginger, a potpourri of spices at and past the mid palate. Delicate with silky tannins, with the youthful color you can get from time transcending wines of that time (like the Bouchard Chambertin 1885 last year in Paris, or the epic 1900 Margaux);  some toffee and spiced fruit with just a touch of kirsch on the gently lapping if now understandably gently receding though still memorable finish. 93 Points (plus several points for “historical wow” factor)

Krug Clos du Mesnil 2003 / Purchased by Krug over the phone in 1971, the Clos du Mesnil is a 4.5 acre walled plot planted only with Chardonnay grapes. This vintage is marked by extreme hot weathers which made different plots of land yield different maturation levels. As a result, the berry picking span over 2 months than the customary 2 weeks. Aged for 9 years before release, this champagne pours a light straw color, almost like that of a Sauvignon Blanc, with thick legs and very fine beads. A somewhat austere wine, this Blanc de Blanc yields notes of toast, white peaches, citrus oils, Comté, mint, chalk, tobacco smoke, slate and cream desserts on the nose. On the palate, the wine first caresses the tongue with robust masculinity, followed by a string of very fine bubbles and a mineral-forward backbone. Surprisingly for a vintage with very ripe berries, the champagne has vibrant acidity while maintaining an unctuous structure. On the palate, the champagne is dominated by notes of chalk, honeysuckle, leather, smoke, charred oak, brioche and smoked fish. With time, there are even notes of citrus oils. The finish is very long and spins with more smokiness. Although the wine is very young, as shown through the astringency towards the end, it surely shows the promise in years to come. 95p

1924 Margaux – I do associate most younger vintages of Ch. Margaux as fairly light and must admit that i´ve been underwhelmed on numerous occasions. However my great experiences with the really old vintages have been astonishing and this wine offered a beautiful texture, still rich and fruity with a plethora of wild berries and a smooth almost creamy sensation, still very clean without oxidation and a truly long, powerful finish.

I have been thinking that the 1990s are perhaps the golden decade of Penfolds Grange. Why? Since the 1990 Grange, there has been a slight shift to more fruit orientation at the expense of oak. No doubt, this has been a positive. Secondly, during this period, Penfolds has had access to quite a number of outstanding grower vineyards. Subsequently, many have moved to bottle their own wine or shifted, when they came out of contract. Penfolds have since planted the very large Waltons vineyard, but it will take a long time before the vines reach maturity.

The 1991 Penfolds Grange certainly supports my assertion. This is close to a perfect wine, and a fantastic follow-up to the legendary 1990. Cherry and wild berry aromas jump out of the bottle/glass. This is an excellent bottle. I took several Grange bottles to the recent Penfolds re-corking clinic, but not this one. At 25 years, it still had a very high shoulder.

This wine ticks all the right boxes on the palate. Upfront, it is still fresh, with a complex mix of blackberry and plum flavours. Secondary bacon and spice flavours are present as well. The wine delivers a very satisfying, generous and full-bodied mouthfeel on the mid-palate, and is very long and persistent on the finish. The fruit is intense and penetrating, but there is enough acidity to avoid any fruitcake characteristics. The tannins have softened and are quite silky.

Memorable dinner at Teppanyaki Restaurant Sazanka, the first and only Teppanyaki restaurant in Europe awarded with a Michelin star with wines like Bouchard Montrachet 2014,  Dom Perignon P2 Rosé 1996 etc..highly recommend!

Sorì Tildin 2008 is a Langhe DOC wine from Barbaresco, as Gaja blends in some Barbera. Although, that is the official version, I always have a strong sensation of Cabernet in the wine, but maybe I am mistaken. A very intense color, a completely different aroma compared to the previous wine. Compact, solid tannins, thicker fruit, more fat, texture. A long finish, with plenty of oak, tannin and alcohol. A big wine compared to the elegant Barbaresco.

Roederer Cristal 70's Tasting - all the vintages.

2015 Bouchard Montrachet / Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, fruity. Minerals, vanilla, spices, detailed, transparent yet fuller nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, detailed, playful, rounded, fresh apples, spices, layered, stunning length, superb balance. 98p

Cardboard was the first thing that I noticed in the nose of the 2004 Pavillon Rouge du Margaux, in the best way possible and not in a corked way, I should add. Coffee, roasted nut and cassis were all secondary, with pinches of earth blending into the coffee. Tertiary aromas of cedar and fir spice emerged in this round and tender wine. The palate was earthy with that gout de terroir, possessing candle wax flavors and a very dry finish, typical of the vintage. I remembered this wine being more impressive at the winery, but then again doesn’t it always taste better there? Gil insisted that the white was so good, it knocked down the ’04 a notch or two.

Screaming Eagle 2010 - 100 points / A beautiful vintage for Screaming Eagle that brings together the best of this wine's complexity, elegance and depth. The wine is seamless from beginning to end starting off with layers of gorgeous, intense flavors that are in balance with the firm, velvety tannins and wonderful freshness. Flavors unfold gently, without obvious power or opulence, offering layers of mocha, incense, blackberry and savory spices. Incredibly long finish. This is a perfect Screaming Eagle.

German Riesling vintage 2014 Part I / Marienburg "Rothenpfad" 2014 Riesling Clemens Busch / Very expressive nose with cherry blossom, orange blossom, strawberry and ripe orange. Full and quite dense on the palate with less charm than nose, but a serious built texture and good length. 94

Today, Bolgheri is among Italy’s famed wine producing regions, but this seemed far from a possibility in 1983, the year Le Macchiole was founded and a time when the area was known simply for a close proximity to the sea and having abundant fruit and grain agriculture. Yet, two native Bolgheresi, Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli, were devoted to the idea of vine growing in their home even when it was not considered a viable way to start a living. “My husband Eugenio and I started off with very limited, if almost no, resources,” Cinzia recalls. “We gave up working his parents’ retail and restaurant business and bought a few hectares of land planted to wheat.

We decided to plant vineyards starting with many varieties - sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and vermentino - so that we might see what grew best on our little property. That is how our life project began and, for me, our learning is still in progress. I believe that Bolgheri is in the early stage of development. It has just become aware of its potential and understanding of which grape varieties give their best to each part of the different soils; much is still yet to be accomplished here.”