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Gutiérrez de la Vega
by Christer Byklum
Gutiérrez de la Vega was one of those names. I found them on Facebook, got a visit booked, and a few days later we went off in our rental car, heading for the hills a bit north of Benidorm. We stopped outside a rather large door in a tight street and a gentleman opened the door looking back at us. Hello, I said, we are here to visit you! Yes, I know! he replied.
There aren’t any real signs that this town house is a wine producer, and it is located in a village with narrow roads, so hard to see how trucks can get in there to pick up pallets of wine. But we walked around the building and were let into a lovely house with an utterly charming Moorish inspired small courtyard and a huge kitchen. Classic music constantly playing in the background and it was soon clear that our host Don Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega is a man of great love of the arts.
The winery was originally in a country house but moved to today’s cellars in 1982. And in this old mill the wines now rest for years in some cases even decades before Felipe find them ready to be bottled. Some are produced in tiny quantities. Not Burgundy tiny, properly tiny. Hundreds or even tens of bottles only. The star of the show is Moscatel, a variety I personally find too often be a bit too grapey, lacking some complexity even if there can be superb ones from Madeira. I was about to taste some of my greatest to date of the variety!
But I also came to adore the Giró variety, pronounced here-oh. In fact, the entire visit was breathtakingly refreshing. New takes on a variety I have a so-so relation to and discovery of new ones. And Felipe talking about literature, opera and music in general. And back in time, Alicante used to make wines in a similar style to that of Jerez and Madeira, but hardly any does it anymore. Late harvest Monastrell wines showing such purity and finesse, and you can see a tradition that can also be traced stylistically to the border regions with France, with Banyuls and Rivesaltes.
The dry Casta Diva Cosecha Dorada is the main production white with around 20.000 bottles. This Moscatel de Alejandria is made from calcareous clay vineyards at about 200 meters of elevation from vines between 30 and fifty years. If you see a bottle of their Tio Raimundo, grab it. You will probably never see it again as the production is a meagre 364 bottles. Same as the above but vineyard is at about 100 meters elevation and vines are 40 to one hundred years old.
Cosecha Miel is still Moscatel de Alejandria but now 100 meters of elevation on limestone soils and 40 years old vines. About 9000 bottles are made. Casta Diav Reserva Real was made for the wedding of now King of Spain’s dinner, and since then a solera has been created, so 100 bottles are made each year from this solera. The 2002 tasted below was singing! Again, from limestone soil.
Over to red wines, Viña Ulises is made of Garnacha and Monastrell on marl and limestone at about 200 meters altitude, 30 to 50 years old wines and a production of about 9000 bottles. Rojo y Negro is Giro of 60 years old vines from 200 meters altitude and again marl and limestone soils. Production is 6000 bottles. Principe de Salinas has vineyards at around 600 meters and sandy soils with 70 years of age from the Monastrell variety and 6000 bottles are made.
Imagine after John Lennon’s song is Giro on calcareous clay at 600 meters and the vines are 80 years old and only 1200 bottles are made. The sweet Monastrell, Recondita Armonia is from sandy soils at 600 meters and 60 year old vines and 6000 bottles made. The 1987 Recondita Armonia Fondillon Solera is made from ungrafted Monastrell in sandy soils and the vines are 70 years old and only 400 bottles produced each year. And even rarer versions exist, the 1978 tasted below was made in a 30-liter barrel, only bottled twice for commercial purposes and then only ten bottles made. Same goes for the 1979. The 1985 was made in a 125-liter barrel, so here 30 bottles were made. These are all 500ml bottles. These three were made from each of Felipe’s three children’s birth years.
Gutierrez de la Vega make wines of personality and elegance, and elegance can be difficult to achieve in a warm and sunny climate, but these wines taste Mediterranean but still shows finesse and nuances as well as freshness that you normally need to go further North to find. A stunning discovery for me, and we also bought quite a few bottles with us and tasted over the following weeks in Spain and enjoyed them highly. These will not be easy to fins, but in Spain you may find them at El Corte Ingles. At least we found a few there. As Felipe brakes some of the regions rules on how to make wine, he, as arguably the most exciting wine producer of the region, is only classifying his wines as table wines. The old story of quality and rules not necessarily going hand in hand.
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Sparkling Sweet Moscatel
Towards lemon yellow. Citrus, orange blossoms, fresh nose. Fresh acidity, elegant light mousse, lemons, tangerine, oranges and candied lemons, long finish. 90
2017 Gutierrez de la Vega Sparkling Sweet Moscatel
Lemon yellow. Citrus, fruity, nuanced nose, some oranges nose. Fresh acidity, richer, fruity, orange, nuanced, intense nose, detailed. Long. 91
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva Golden Harvest
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some tropical fruits, elegant, lightly scented nose. Medium acidity, apples, roses, some citrus, good length. 88
2019 Gutierrez de la Vega Monte Diva
Pale lemon yellow. Rosemary, intense, dried fruits, some citrus nose. Fresh acidity, again rosemary, oranges, candied lemons, fruit driven, long. 90
2016 Gutierrez de la Vega Tio Raimundo
Watery lemon yellow. Flor, some honey, orange notes, nuanced, herbs, thyme notes nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, oranges, minerals, saline, nuanced, sublime balance, touch of nuts, long. 93
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Rio Raimundo Moscatel Plus
Golden. Oranges, roses, incredible nose, detailed, layered and nuanced, detailed, lilies and violets. Fresh acidity, nuanced, intense, detailed, creamy, layered, citrus, flowers, superb balance, long finish. 95
1997 Gutierrez de la Vega Violetta
Straw yellow. Honey of all kinds, subtle ones and more forward, floral notes, oranges and candied lemons, detailed yet so rounded on the nose you don’t necessarily notice it. Fresh acidity, intense, oranges, orange peel, candied oranges, thyme notes, rosemary, chalk, saline, detailed, long. Stunning balance. 96
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Ulizes Giro
Bright garnet. Strawberries, anise, some faint spices, floral nose. Fresh acidity, soft texture, red berries, anise, elegant, good length. 88
2019 Gutierrez de la Vega Ulizes Giro
Bright ruby. Some spices, red fruits, elegant nuanced nose. Thyme. Fresh acidity, red berries, juicy, fresh, red fruits, good length. 89
2017 Gutierrez de la Vega Imagine Blue Harvest Giro
Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, liquorice, sweet roses, Louis Odier, faint mint touch, raspberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red berries, juicy, some spices, bit leaner bodied, elegant texture, long. 90
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Rojo y Negro
Ruby. Red fruits, anise, some spices, blackberries nose, liquorice nose. Some cinnamon. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, juicy, red fruits, lovely balance, elegant, long. 91
2013 Gutierrez de la Vega Rojo y Negro
Ruby. Red berries, some anise, some spices, vanilla, this has some Syrah in it that the recent vintages does not. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, spices, peppery, minerals, nuanced, long. 91
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Reservado Para Super Felipe (Tambourine)
Not released, one barrel for the family, Giro and Merlot. Ruby. Incredibly floral, nuanced, subtle, like velvet for the nose, thyme, rosemary, intriguing nose, so subtle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, red berries, nuanced, detailed, layered, stunning balance. 94
2019 Gutierrez de la Vega Monastrell Herto del Piño
Bright ruby. Red berries, touch of herbs and anise nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, red berries, elegant, lovely balance. Good length. 89
2014 Gutierrez de la Vega Rojo y Negro
Ruby. Blackberries, anise, spices, liquorice, notes of thyme and rosemary, intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dark fruits, spices, liquorice, nuanced and detailed, long. 92
2007 Gutierrez de la Vega Principe de Salinas
Monastrell. Ruby, garnet rim. Dark berries, anise, some spices, tobacco and some dates, faint leather note nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dried fruits, blackberries and structure, bit firmer, leathery liquorice finish. Long. 90
2000 Gutierrez de la Vega Viña Ulizes Crianza
Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, leather, nuanced, dates, figs, detailed, mint high note, faint thyme. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red berries, structured, leather, liquorice, firm, nuanced, elegant yet firm, long. 93
2016 Gutierrez de la Vega Monastrel semi sweet
Not sold. Ruby. Very ripe raspberries, some lime peel notes on top, somewhat spicy, touch balsamic nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, some structured, elegant acidity, cassis and ripe raspberries, good length. 89
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia Monastrell Dulce
Ruby. Blackberries, anise, raspberries and spices, deep and rich nose. Fresh acidity, playful, figs, raspberries, some orange notes, detailed and layered, so playful, intense and rich, stunning balance, long. 96
2019 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia Monastrell Dulce
Ruby. Dried fruits, some thyme, rosemary, detailed, liquorice, some mint nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, dates, figs, plums, spices, nuanced, soft and gentle, long. 94
2017 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia Monastrell Dulce
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, pure blueberries like you have hardly smelled them before, some liquorice, a faint whiff of honey, some Christmas spices, some rosemary notes with air, dark chocolate notes, candied violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, red and dark fruits, touch balsamic, balsamic poured over a bowl of raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, bit narrower finish, elegant. Very detailed. 94
2016 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia Monastrell Dulce
Deep ruby. Somewhat withdrawn, more floral, blackberries, dates, subdued, elegant, dark fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, spices, blackberries and anise, juicy, lacks some lift, ling. 91
2009 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia Monastrell Dulce
Ruby with brick rim. Aged on lees of 1988 and 1998. Dates, anise, some figs, nuanced, layered, intense, liquorice, touch of mint and chocolate, white chocolate, coconut, raisins nose. Incredible nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, subtle, smooth, nuanced, so gentle yet intense, incredible balance of all levels, long. 97
2017 Gutierrez de la Vega La Diva A Maria Callas Moscatel Dulce
Golden with amber hue. Rosemary, grilled apricots and pineapples, fresh apricots, orange peel, orange marmalade nose. Honey. Fresh acidity, intense, detailed, rich, bitter notes, white albedo of orange and lemon, detailed, almost a minty note in the finish, long. 93
2009 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva
Pale lemon yellow. Apricots, citrus peel, floral, nuanced and detailed nose. Fresh and citrusy, nuanced and detailed, refreshing, stunning balance. 91
2014 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva Moscatel Cosecha Miel Montserrat Caballe
Golden. Apricots, peach, pineapples, nuanced, pure and bright nose, detailed, layered, incredible brightness. Fresh acidity, detailed, lemon curd, intense, fruit driven, pure and elegant, beautiful balance, long finish. 93
2018 Gutierrez de la Vega La Diva A Maria Callas Moscatel Dulce
Pale golden. Nuanced, lemons, detailed, floral, orange blossoms, lemon curd, lime peel, touch of bitterness, long. 93
2002 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva Cosecha Real Solera
2019 bottling. The base of this wine was served when the now king of Spain got married in 2004. Three barrels of 225 liters each is what this solera is comprised of. 100 bottles bottled every year. Golden. Honey, orange marmalade, orange blossoms, candied lemons, so pure, detailed and nuanced, lilies nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, superb balance of all elements, so incredibly pure, nuanced and bright, long. This has a purity of aromas that is properly rare. Maybe some will have difficulties seeing all the filigree details here, how incredibly well-mannered all elements are, this is like great Muslim architecture. Massive amounts of details, but not always that easy to see. You need to sit down. Relax. Focus. Attention. 96
2016 Gutierrez de la Vega Costa Diva Esencia Moscatel Dulce
Deep amber with golden rim, viscous. Amber, dried fruits, honey, apricots, nuanced, detailed, lemon peel, orange blossoms, floral notes, rich yet subtle. Fresh acidity, intense, superb acidity, mind blowing, subtle yet so playful, like a Spanish Flamenco guitarist whose fingers dances along the instrument late at night, in trance, sublime body and texture, liquid gold, such depth, creamy yet playful, then stops. Pauses. But the silence after Mozart is still Mozart as they say. And here we go again, then the aftertaste kicks in. Dates, raisins, sultanas, figs, apricots, honey, incredible. And wow, the power, the subtlety, the balance, the layers, this is one of the greatest wines I have tasted. Aftertaste for minutes. 100
2015 Gutierrez de la Vega Costa Diva Esencia Moscatel Dulce
35 litres made in 2019! Amber. All types of spices, incredible nose, green tea, black tea, Earl Grey, white tea, apricots, some thyme and rosemary. Honey, of all levels. Acacia honey. So intense. Fresh acidity, elegant, detailed, some lemons, oranges, detailed, nuanced, perfectly ripe oranges, total harmony, so gentle yet so intense, one of the greatest wines I have tasted. Incredible length. 100
2019 Gutierrez de la Vega Costa diva Esencia Moscatel Dulce
Golden. Apricots, touch honey, detailed, citrus, intense and layered, stunning nose, still fermenting very slowly and not yet in barrel. Fresh acidity, fruit driven, nuanced, detailed, layered, detailed, creamy, nuanced, lemons and lemon curd, long. 96
1987 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia SF “Solera”
2020 bottling. Amber. Mint in abundance, detailed, stunning nose, rosemary, thyme, dried fruits, detailed nose, incredible depth. Saline. Inside old sail ships, bit of teak, salt, mahogany, wood polish, maybe even brass polish. Fresh acidity, nuanced, detailed, intense, layered, deep, gorgeous balance, even some youthful raisins to liven it up. Long. Incredible. 100
1978 Gutierrez de la Vega Recondita Armonia SF Felipe
Amber, golden hue. Coffee, nuanced, mint, detailed, some caramel, dark chocolate, mint, detailed, layered nose, stunning balance. Fresh acidity, smooth, citrusy, detailed, layered, incredible balance, stunning balance, long, gorgeous. 100