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Wine Description
The Story
The new facilities were designed with a view to optimizing the selection of parcels (wooden and concrete vats with capacities to match the size of each parcel). Vinification is carried out in accordance with the tannic characteristics of the grapes.
The press wines from each vat are separated into barrels before undergoing a selection procedure. This work, based entirely on the tasting of the musts and then the wines, culminates in the subtle alchemy of blending, enabling the fruit of each parcel to transcend in an incomparable ensemble.
The wines are matured in barrels in the cellars at a naturally controlled temperature and humidity. Selection and monitoring of the quality of the barrels, racking procedures, maturing times and the appropriate quantity of egg whites for the fining process are all determined through continuous tasting and analysis.
All of these operations enable the wine to develop and then to age in harmony.
• A.O.C: Margaux
• Classification: Second Grand Cru Classé in 1855
• Area: 55 hectares
• Soil: deep gravel from the Quaternary period (Günz and Mindel) with a sand/clay matrix
• Grape varieties: 70% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc , 24% Merlot
• Density of planting: 6,600 to 7,700 vines/hectare
• Vinification: wooden and concrete vats with capacities that enable each parcel to be treated separately
• Maturing: an average of eighteen months in Bordeaux type barrels made from fine grain oak from the forests of central France. 35 to 45 % of the barrels are renewed every year
• Owner: Gonzague Lurton
• Director: Jérôme Héranval
Vintage 2023
Challenges and triumphs: the 2023 vintage in Bordeaux
The Bordeaux wine region has long been revered for its exceptional wines, shaped by a delicate dance between nature and human skill. However, the 2023 vintage was proof of the resilience and adaptability of winegrowers in the face of difficult weather conditions. From the relentless weather conditions to the current activity in the vineyards in November, this year has been a rollercoaster ride for Bordeaux winemakers.
One of the most important events that shaped the 2023 vintage was the unpredictable weather. Unpredictability prevailed: early warmth was followed by atypical cold spells, accompanied by sporadic and often intense rainfall. There were several periods of frost during the budding period, a danger that sent shivers down the spines of the winegrowers. Spring frosts, especially after the first budding, can be devastating for the sensitive vines and affect the yield and possibly also the quality of the grapes.
The summer months brought with them a number of challenges. Unusual heat waves and prolonged drought put the vineyards under additional stress. A lack of water can affect the quality and yield of the grapes, which can lead to smaller berries and an imbalance between sugar and acid content. But the winegrowers in Bordeaux have always been resilient and have used their expertise to adapt to these adversities.
There has been much speculation and hope about the quality of the 2023 harvest in the Bordeaux region. Despite the stormy weather conditions, we are cautiously optimistic about the overall quality of our harvest. Initial tastings and assessments suggest that the grapes that have weathered the storms, while yielding less, show promising complexity, concentration and a balance of sugar and acidity – a possible testament to the craftsmanship and expertise - a vintage that could surprise with its quality and character.
Suckling, the first major critic to publish his views on Bordeaux 2023 vintage, is ebullient about the quality of the vintage. "In many ways, I like them better than many of the highly touted 2022s", he begins, "because they are so Bordeaux in their nature with their tensioned mouthfeels and energetic finishes. Many 2022s are very powerful and rich, highlighting the extremely hot and dry grape-growing conditions of the vintage. Some are almost international in their essence."
According to Suckling several senior chateau prefer 2023 to the widely celebrated 2022s, including L'Eglise Clinet's Noemie Durantou Reilhac, whilst Pierre-Oliver Clouet sees 2023 as "much more Cheval Blanc".
Like Jane Anson, he also notes that this is a heterogeneous vintage that favours "top terroirs and top winemakers", where you can find "terrific-quality wines, but they are different than 2022. I would compare these 2023s to 2019 or 2001 – even 1990 – for their freshness and balance of ripe fruit."
Suckling's top scoring wines include Canon (99-100), Le Pin (99-100) & Pavie (99-100), whilst value picks include Haut-Brisson (95-96) and de Ferrand (94-95).
