100% chardonnay, biodynamic viticulture, bottled 7/12, dégorgement 7/15.
Tasted in the original Impitoyable No.2 as well as No.4 for comparison (see picture).
Upon opening the bottle, there is an immediate olfactory sensation of the finest brioche and hazelnuts. Bright yellow with very fine but persistent perlage, more of it, of course, in No.4 than in No.2. The nose shows the expected nuances as well: somewhat more yeasty and more tightly laced in No.4. For pairing with a meal, I preferred and continued with No.2 (admittedly, I think I always will, that glass is a stroke of genius).
Perfectly integrated nose of mineral and fruity elements, none of which claims dominance; there is pomelo, mango, ripe pear, dried figs, hazelnuts again, freshly roasted bread and an ever, ever so slightly lactic component; I just had to think of Olivier Roellinger's fleur-de-sel caramel. From there, inspired by mineral tones, the next impression is the salty pureness of the ocean. All of that continues in the mouth, then, with a texture that feels creamy as well as fresh and firmly mineral supported by elegant acidity and continued perlage.
Pure, elegant, complex and densely aromatic, this is a brilliant wine.
Pureness, elegance, complexity: this is a