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Wine Description
The Story
The Montrachet of Marquis de Laguiche belongs to this Pantheon. This property (2.06 hectares - 5.15 acres) is actually the largest parcel of the Montrachet vineyard and has been in the hands of the Laguiche family since 1363. The Drouhin family is in charge of its cultivation and vinification and, since 1947, has spread and preserved its worldwide renown.
In the southern part of the Côte de Beaune, the estate of the Marquis de Laguiche is entirely located on the Puligny side of the appellation. A very mild slope and a great south-east exposure.
History & tradition: at every period of history, a few vineyards have been considered heirloom treasures for their incomparable quality.
Soil: brown-red earth, strewn with white, polished limestone pebble. The word "rachet" in Montrachet means infertile land, where nothing can grow.
Viticulture:Plantation density: from 10,000 stocks/ha in order to extract all possible nuances from the terroir.
Pruning: Guyot.
Yield: 48hl/ha. Low on purpose to limit the production of each vine stock.
Vinification
Harvesting: by hand, in small open crates in order to preserve the integrity of the fruit.
Sorting: if necessary, the grapes are sorted twice : once when being picked, the second time on the sorting table at the winery.
Pressing: very slow so as to respect fruit. Juices from the very last pressings are not retained
The wine goes directly into barrels after débourbage (decanting of white wine to reduce sediment).
Ageing
Type: in barrels (0% in new oak).
Length: 15 to 18 months.
Origin of the wood: French oak forests.
Weathering of the wood: Joseph Drouhin insists on total control of the weathering for a period of 3 years, one of the contributing elements to the elegance of the wine.
Throughout the ageing process, decisions are taken only after careful tasting evaluation. The data obtained is then completed through technical analysis. As with every other Joseph Drouhin wine, absolute priority is given to the true expression of terroir and character of the vintage.
Serving
Temperature: 14-15°C (58-60°F).
Cellaring: 10 to 40 years.
Wine Information
2011 - Precise, charming and generous in style
Spring arrived quickly with the first months of the year being mild and precipitations being low. The month of April was very dry with 80% less rainfall than usual. The average monthly temperatures stayed quite high in March, April and May. We almost thought that summer had arrived early in Burgundy.
In these conditions the first tears were observed from mid-March and rapidly afterwards the buds started swelling. At the very beginning of April the first green tips of the buds appeared. At this point the vines were three weeks ahead compared to a normal year. The record temperatures of April stimulated the vines and vegetative growth was accelerated. Flowering began on the 17th of May and was fully in flower around the 22nd. At the end of May we noticed a month's advance on 2010.
As a result of this warm, dry weather the vines remained very healthy, the habitual diseases and small pests being deprived of the appropriate conditions for their development.
The month of June proves normal for the season with, however, elevated temperatures at the end of the month. The first hailstorms damaged the vineyard of Rully on the 7th of June.
The month of July marked a radical change with the meteorological conditions being the total opposite. Burgundy is swept with an important wave of rainfall. Temperatures fall below the seasonal average. These conditions slow down the veraison. The first berries to change color are noticed around the 10th of July and the grapes start to really evolve from the 20th of July. The vineyard still appears exceptionally healthy. Hailstorms reduce the potential yields in the areas of Chassagne, Puligny and Saint-Aubin.
At the beginning of August the stages of veraison are close to 90% depending on the areas. The month is marked by alternate periods of hot and sunny, and cool and rainy weather. In our domain the harvest starts on the 29th of August, and continues until mid-September. In Chablis the harvest also started at the end of August, to finish on the 13th of September. Depending on fluctuating weather and their differing geographical situations, yields are, finally, very variable with a normal harvest in the Maconnais, low, or very low in the Cote Chalonnaise, low in Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune, and normal in Chablis.
The vinifications in the whites as in the reds progressed quite well, taking 2 to 3 weeks depending on the appellation. It is a vintage where, because of the condition of the red grapes, we were able to keep a small proportion of whole bunches, especially for the finer appellations.
The malolactic fermentation lasted from December to April. Bottling took place reasonably early in order to keep the fruit and the elegance of the wines. Throughout the tastings that took place during the maturing, we were very enthusiastic about the charming, generous and precise nature of the vintage. It will therefore be well appreciated even when young. It is, once again a vintage that reveals the different nuances of our terroirs and should equally delight wine enthusiasts or connaisseurs of our Burgundy.
Vintage 2011
Burgundy 2011
'We are beginning to get spoilt with all these fine vintages', said Lalou Bize in October 2011. 'We are very happy with our 2011s.' 'Much better than we had expected,' said Denis Bachelet. 'Lots of colour and fruit, together with good acidity and souplesse.'
Yes. It would appear that Burgundy has done it again. And if views are not quite as enthusiastic in Chablis and in the Côte Chalonnaise, at least in the Côte d'Or (and particularly in the Côte de Nuits) we have another big one to follow 2008, 2009, and 2010. Nature is smiling on the Burgundy lover.
Weather Conditions
Burgundy suffered the worst of its winter as early as the end of November/beginning of December. It was cold and grey, and there was quite a bit of snow. It continued cold but drier in January, but a little warmer in February and March, and then in April, just as in 2007, summer arrived with a bang. In temperatures which climbed into the low 30°s bud break started early and the devemopement of the shoots was rapid. One thing was already clear: barring catastrophe the harvest would be early. This fine weather continued into May.
June was pleasant enough, without being really warm, and July cool and wet. Even August, except for the occasional pair of days, lacked heat until the middle of the month. This came just when it was required, and while there were three days of wet weather just as the harvest was due to start in the Côte d'Or (August 24-26) these were the only periods of anxiety to worry the growers. September continued dry and warm, enabling the Hautes Côtes and other late pickers to finish their collection at their ease.
Of course rarely does a summer season go by without some hail damage somewhere in Burgundy. Rully has received the worst of it this year, being blitzed on the 8th of June, and then, and more seriously, on July 12th. Decimated is frequently an over-exaggerated term, but that is certainly what parts of the vignoble looked like. There were several frost attacks in Chablis in the spring, plus hail damage there too on 29th June, which has affected the size of the harvest in Fourchaume and neighbouring grands crus. Overall, it was wetter in Chablis that in the Côte d'Or – and it seems also to have been drier in the Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune. Both these factors underlie the relative success of these three areas.
The Wine
The white wine crop looks to be healthily-sized; if anything a little more plentiful than the average, growers talking about having produced 45 to 52 hectolitres per hectare in the Côte de Beaune. The fruit was healthy, pHs were around 3.10 - 3.15, and fermentations have been quite rapid. Some suggest slightly lower levels of alcohol than 2009 or 2010. Where red wines of equal reputation are made in the same cellar it seems that there is more satisfaction with the red wine results than with the white.
The red wines are even better in the Côte de Nuits. The crop is not large, there being less juice in the grapes than they promised, but this has led to added concentration. Alcohol levels are at a natural 11.5° - 12.5°, so the wines will not be too heavy. The colours are encouraging and there is plenty of fruit.
We need now (I wrote in November 2011) to wait patiently until the wines are tastable. Someone said to me long ago that you need to hold back and give the wines six weeks after the malos were complete before you can attack them with confidence. Only then, when the CO2 content has sunk to half, can you properly experience the mouth feel, the physical aspect of the wine.
One thing, though, is already clear. Two thousand and eleven Burgundy is a success.
November 2012
Twelve months on, with the wines now well post malo and ready for tasting, what do we make of the 2011s? The whites are following a pattern which seems to have arisen in previous years: very pleasant, reasonably fresh, obligingly fruity, but without real backbone, depth and staying power. Drink them soon. Don't, I suggest, be prepared to spend the high prices today asked for premier cru Puligny unless you have tasted them first and are convinced they will be better in 2020 than 2015. Go for Rully instead.
The reds, lighter than the 2010s and less exotically rich than the 2009s, are delicious. They may not have enormous backbone, but there are many which have a delightful purity of Pinot fruit – and pure Pinot is one of the world's most seductive vinous aromas. They should not take too long to come round. But while delicious then, I do believe they will last, at least in the medium to long term. Yes, at least in red, 2011 is a success.
January 2013
Prices are beginning to be released as I write. The high prices for the 2012s seen at the Hospices auction are bound to have its effect. But this seems to more evident among the already pricey, more fashionable wines and domaines. The polarization between simple (perhaps better rephrased as unpretentions) Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits grand and top premier cru is continuing. Many, particularly the white wine growers, have kept to their 2010 prices. More have raised their demands by five to eight percent, which means that British wine merchants can hold to last years prices, as the rate of exchange has improved. A few are increasing by 15 or even 20 percent as growers view the tiny amounts of 2012 in their cellars.
by Clive Coates MW:
