Ian D' Agata

Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive 2012 / Bright golden yellow. Candied lemon peel, custard cream and apple pie on the very refined nose, with a hint of minty herbs. Sweet, dense and lush, but with a terrific spine of acidity framing the pineapple and fresh citrus flavors. Really opened with aeration to show knockout complexity. Hugel was unsure initially about making a VT in this vintage but in the end opted to make this one. The grapes are from the Schoenenbourg.

Château Lynch Bages 2000/ 71% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot, 11% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 5.5 g/l total acidity; 13.3% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Knockout aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, mocha and cedar complicated by scorched earth and tobacco. Big, ripe and dense, with flavors similar to the aromas and a seamless, rich texture. Though powerful and rich, with a sensual mouthfeel, it maintains a graceful, light-on-its-feet quality. Finishes with ripe, fine-grained tannins and excellent length. Still an infant, but clearly a great vintage for this property.

Ceretto Barbaresco Bricco Asili 1978 / Dark red with an amber edge. Deep, concentrated aromas and flavors of red cherry, minerals, marzipan, mushroom and spices. Complex and tactile on the palate; in fact, this wine is still marvelously rich and dense—thicker and more concentrated than the 1982 but also less piercingly fresh. Smooth tannins caress the palate on the rising finish. A great wine and an example of how great traditionally made Barbarescos can be.