Pinot Noir 2016

Another new name, and promise (again). From a block planted in 1998 at Romsey, 620m up in the Macedon Ranges owned by Melbourne Architect Nonda Katsalidis & partner Eleni Arbus. Incidentally, the Mount Monument 6 pack box folds up to be a wine stool. Made by ex De Bortoli (and now Galli) winemaker Ben Rankin. Wild fermented, with 40% whole bunches. 12 months in 30% new oak. Despite the low alcohol, there is the syrupy texture and subtle smoky warmth of ‘16, the flavours tending to raspberry cough medicine, punctuated by smoky stem influence. A real creeper this – at first it seems a bit firm and raw, but there’s a smouldering spiciness too. In a phase, perhaps, but length and peppery punch. Interest, no doubt. Best drinking: next year and for at least five years. 18/20, 93/100.13%, $40. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.