Megyer Szamorodni Száraz 2011

This is the special dry szamorodni style. Late-harvest and botrytised grapes are fermented and aged under flor for a minimum of six months (regulation) but actually most wineries keep it under flor for at least two or three years. 100% Sárgamuskotály. TA 7.4 g/l, RS 2.2 g/l.
Although this wonderful (and very dry) wine was described as being a bit like sherry, a bit like vin jaune, it's completely its own, unique thing. The smell of a wave-torn beach after a storm. Nervy. Piercing acidity. Salted dried apricots. Chalk-rubbed sandalwood. White flowers. Bitter almonds. Linear, bone-juddering, purity. Unfettered yet somehow has monastic discipline. It almost echoes in the mouth, like footsteps ringing on wide, cold, flagstone corridors. 10 years old and yet it tastes timeless. Will this ever age? Absolutely riveting.