History
Emmanuel took over the family parcels in the 1er cru village of Villers-aux-Noeuds, just south of the city of Reims, in 1997 when the last lease on the family parcel had expired. The village once boasted 200 hectares of vines, but shortly after the turn of the 19th Century, many of those vineyards became victim to market forces and were razed for the expansion of the city. The best hillside parcels remained intact, including Le Mont Benoit. The parcel is composed of clay, silt and limestone and benefits from a southeastern exposure. Emmanuel’s 2.5 hectares come entirely from this parcel and the oldest vines were planted in 1962. It is
certainly an advantage to have an isolated parcel of land in a region that ranks high in the use of pesticides, fertilizers, and other chemical cocktails dumped and sprayed in the vineyards. It minimizes the contact and negative impact from less scrupulous neighbors who don’t share the same respect for the land. Le Mont Benoit is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. However, Emmanuel believes it is often the case that each varietal harmonizes in a way that expresses the character of the parcel more than the character of the varietal. Chalk one up for the effect of terroir.
Emmanuel began transitioning to organic farming soon after he took over in 1997 and by 2005 he stopped using all synthetic treatments. He sold his fruit to negociants until 2003, when he made his first wine under his own label. In 2008 he began the process of organic certification by Ecocert. While he doesn’t believe that organic viticulture will always necessarily result in better wine, he does it out of respect for the land. “The way I came to organic farming was not through any sort of militant philosophy, but through the pleasure of wine,” he says. “If you take pleasure in what you do, and if your environment gives you pleasure, your work will be better. It’s a question of harmony.”