Château Kirwan

The past three centuries have seen three illustrious families successively preside over the destiny of this Cantenac-

Margaux Great Classified Growth (Grand Cru Classé).

The name Kirwan also evokes a wonderfully charming abode built in the late 18th century by Mark Kirwan. The Irishman built the classical mansion on the estate he inherited when he married the daughter of the landowner, Sir John Collingwood, “Sieur de Lasalle,” one of the first négociants in the history of Bordeaux. Proud to consummate Anglo-Irish friendship in Bordeaux, Mark Kirwan expanded the vineyard, uniting two smaller adjoining vineyards in the village of Cantenac, the Ganet estate and his Lassalle property. The entire property took the name of “Kirwan.” Meanwhile he built up the reputation of this wine, which Thomas Jefferson praised enthusiastically during his tour of Bordeaux vineyards. Upon his 1787 visit, the future American President elevated Château “Quirouen” to the second growth level, along with the Ségur and Lynch vineyards, in his famous Jefferson on Wine. In 1855, when the finest samples of Médoc wines were selected for the 1855 World’s Fair organized by Napoleon III, Château Kirwan was ranked at the head of Médoc Third Great Growths.

The Godard family purchased the estate in the second half of the 19th century. Camille Godard, Mayor of Bordeaux, enlarged the estate and designed the current park, with its fishpond and its rose tunnel, adding to the property’s beauty. In 1926, Château Kirwan came into the hands of the Schÿler family, relations of the then-owners, the Guestier brothers. With roots in the Hanseatic League, the Schÿlers had settled in Bordeaux in 1739 as wine merchants. Schröder & Schÿler sold the wine first in Northern and Eastern Europe, and later opened markets in the United States, Canada and Japan after the Second World War. More recently, distribution has expanded throughout Asia, India, the United Arab Emirates and Brazil. In the 1980s the Schÿlers made significant investments and initiated a complete renovation of the vineyard.

In 2008, the family decided to further develop the proficiency of the Schÿler children, naming Philippe Delfaut, an oenologist with experience in Margaux, as General Manager of the estate. He works side by side with Nathalie, Tour and Reception (or Wine tourism) Director, Yann Schÿler, CEO of the Schröder & Schÿler Trading House, and Sophie, Director of Communication and Market Development, with a focus exports in partnership with a select network of Bordeaux wine merchants. Philippe engaged the services of Mr. Boissenot and his son to assist in running the vineyard, and focused on understanding the terroir through an in-depth pedological study. Vinification is gentle, and is conducted differently according to each plot, with several slow macerations at medium temperature. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation take place simultaneously to preserve the fruit and the wine’s aromatic purity. Final blending is performed in mid-February at the first extraction, after three months in barrels. Aging continues using four different kinds of wooden barrels, with manual extraction followed by fining with egg whites suited to the needs and characteristics of the wine. Bottling takes place 18 to 21 months later. A second Charmes de Kirwan wine complements the Grand Vin, Château Kirwan, accounting for 30% ofproduction.

An authentic and exceptional Terroir

The vineyard of Château Kirwan is located in the heart of the Southern Médoc region. This area is also known as Haut-Médoc, and includes well-known communal appellations such as Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Margaux. Château Kirwan’s vines are located in the municipality of Cantenac, which is part of the communal appellation of Margaux (a communal appellation covers all or parts of several municipalities, but takes the name of the principal wine–making village). 

Properties of Château Kirwan’s

Plateau de CantenacThe vineyards of Château Kirwan are mainly located on the Plateau de Cantenac. Our plots include several of the finest terroirs and terraces of this plateau. They feature a rich and diversified structure, as can be seen in the three plots described below. The deep and gravelly terroirs allow for excellent drainage and optimal water regulation, while the high-quality clay terroirs guarantee exceptional Merlots.

The geological formation of the Plateau de Cantenac: Analysis of the geological formation of this soil shows that the creation of the Pyrenees in the Cretaceous period was a fundamental stage in its development. The increase in the elevation of themountains in the mid-Tertiary also played an important role, with rubble from this and other rising mountains in the region keeping the Aquitaine basin filled, often to overflowing. The last phase in the creation of the zone’s landscape spanned the mid-Tertiary through the Quaternary Periods. Over years, decades and centuries, erosion in the form of fine-grained sands, silts and clays was washed down, transported and deposited throughout the Aquitaine Basin by rain water, similar to the gravel deposits in the Garonne River. This process led to the formation of several terraces over a long period of time.

The earliest recognizable flood plain, or terrace, in the Bordeaux area dates from the Pliocene, with the expansion of the Garonne (and Gironde) Rivers at the end of the Tertiary, and is related to the change in the sea level during the Ice Age. The Pleistocene witnessed the successive formation of four other terraces, the Günz, Mindel, Riss and Würm Plains. When the last Ice Age came to a end, some 10 thousand years ago, the sea began to revert to its previous level, filling the deep Garonne River bed and creating a large estuary. A major part of the Würm and Riss terraces of the Médoc were inundated by waters from the estuary, leaving the Günz as the main viticultural terrace for this region. Although the lower terraces still appear at the surface from time to time.

The formation of Château Kirwan’s vineyard:

The vines of Château Kirwan are planted in soil originating from some of these terraces. This terroir can be divided into five main soil groups according to their origin:

Type 4 Riss Terrace gravel,

 Soils of colluvian provenance,

 Clay subsoil dating from the Upper Eocene (Mid-Tertiary),

 Riss laminated clays,

 Type 5 Würm Terrace gravel.

This “soil blend” is the key to the complexity of Château Kirwan’s wines. The more heterogeneous the soils, the more aromas and characteristic notes the grapes, and hence the wines, will reveal. This is the reason why the “wine blend” at Château Kirwan is always something complex and exciting, just like its terroir.

INTERVIEW WITH PHILIPPE DELFAUT,  Winemaker of Château Kirwan

In your opinion, how is Margaux different from other Médoc appellations? Aside from the fact that it is the first municipal appellation that one crosses upon enteringMédoc, it is also the only one to lend its name to a Premier Cru Classé (First Classified Growth). But more than anything Margaux distinguishes itself by its terroir. The appellation is mainly made up of fine, poor gravel, while further to the north the gravel is richer and often clayey. Merlot is relatively prominent in the Margaux appellation, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Pauillacor Saint Estèphe. That is why we sometimes generalize, considering Margaux wines as feminine because they are rather fine and elegant. Pauillac and Saint Estèphe wines, on the other hand, are see as masculine and more robust.

Where does Château Kirwan stand in terms of style and reputation?

Today Château Kirwan is looking to express its origin and its unique terroir. These historic assets of Bordeaux Grands Crus (Great Growths) are recognized and envied all over the world. Our savoir-faire consists of doing everything possible to highlight this authenticity, recognizable by its elegance and balance. It is a passionate job that is beginning to gain recognition as an alternative to a standardization that is more demonstrative, but less and less appreciated. Can you explain how Kirwan has progressed these past years in its goal of better expressing its terroir? We have striven to understand this fabulous terroir. In 2007 and 2008, a pedological study allowed us to map out the soil. It highlighted some ten categories of soils, mainly gravelly or clayey, all with different properties and potentials for wine-growing. Thanks to that study, we now have a deeper understanding of the behavior of the vines and we can adjust our methods to the various characteristics of the soil. Our work is becoming more precise and individualized, and it contributes to the authenticity of Château Kirwan.

What do you look for at harvest time?

What is the challenge in terms of picking the grapes? We look for purity in the fruit, in other words perfect maturity. Every plot must be harvested at its optimum. Every day as the grapes are maturing, we devote a lot of time to tasting and analyzing the berries. We look for skins with aromas of fresh fruit and rich in anthocyanins. The tannins in the skin must be soft and sensitive. The seeds must not make the fruit harsh or bitter. Every passing day is vital to reach that fragile and illusive balance between an under-ripe grape  a vegetal character, and an overripe grape presenting heavy stewed aromas. Although waiting is easy, the vine must be monitored constantly to avoid over-ripeness. Thanks to our soil map and our daily observations, intra-parcel selection is possible and the harvest is becoming more and more precise