Maximin Grünhaus

It appears that the Grünhaus estate was densely settled even in Roman times. Roman flat bricks in the foundations of the manor house, pottery remains, and roof and wall tiles suggest that a ‘Villa Rustica’ once stood on the site of the present Schloss. There is evidence that wine was produced on the estate in Roman times: discoveries include the remains of a pottery, which produced amphorae for storing wine, along with Roman grape harvester’s knives.

The first documentary evidence of Grünhaus, then called ‘Villa ad Valles’, dates from 6 February 966. Emperor Otto 1, heir of Charlemagne, confirmed a donation that had been made in the 7th century by the Frankish King Dagobert. At that time, the buildings, vineyards and surrounding land had been given to the Benedictine monastery of Saint Maximin in Trier. This document is currently in the Biobliothèque Nationale in Paris.

Until the end of the 18th century Maximin Grünhaus was managed by the Abbey of Saint Maximin. After all church property was secularised by Napoleon, the estate was held under French administration until 1810. In that year, the estate was sold to Friedrich Freiherr von Handel. Forty years later, it passed to his grandson, Friedrich Freiherr von Solemacher.

In 1882 Carl Ferdinand Freiherr von Stumm-Halberg bought the Grünhaus estate which consisted of vineyards, a farm, and extensive woodland. Investing heavily, he transformed it into one of the most modern of its time. A turbine in the Ruwer provided electricity to power countless machines, including the hydraulic presses in the cuverie. Small locomotives ran on the vineyard roads, and a cable car transported equipment around the vineyard.

The von Stumm’s only son died early, so their daughter Ida received the estate as her dowry on the day of her wedding to Conrad von Schubert, later to be a lieutenant general. With the change of name at the end of the nineteenth century, the label changed too. Until today the unmistakeable art nouveau label has been used for all Rieslings from the estate. On the left, next to a view of Grünhaus and pretty vine motifs, is a golden oval frame bearing the coat of arms of the von Schuberts, flanked by two cherubs. The animal in the coat of arms is a snorting steamhorse with a sword between its front hooves. This refers to the achievements of Conrad von Schubert, who founded the first railway engineer regiment, and was ennobled by the German emperor. On the coat of arms a miner’s lamp and a cog can also be seen, in recognition of the Stumm family mines and steelworks in the Saarland.

Dr. Carl von Schubert, who now runs the business, comes from the fifth generation of the family. His doctoral thesis examined the economy of viticulture on steep slopes.

The Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river, about two kilometres before it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the Von Schubert family and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: the Abtsberg, the Herrenberg, and the Bruderberg.

Each of these vineyards has its own distinct micro-climate, gradient and soil composition, differences in terroir which explain the unique character of the wines made at Grünhaus. Here are the specific features of the three vineyards:

The Abtsberg

Wines harvested from this vineyard were originally destined for the table of the Abbot (or Abt) of the Abbey of St Maximin. The site covers 14 hectares, parts of which have been planted with vines for over a thousand years. The subsoil is blue Devonian slate and the hillside runs south-east to south-west, achieving a gradient of up to 70%. Abtsberg wines are characterised by a finely structured subtle minerality, a racy acidity, generous fruit and great delicacy. They are amongst the longest lived Rieslings of the region.

The Herrenberg

Wines from this vineyard were made specially for the Abbey’s Choirmasters. Extending over 19 hectares, the site benefits from deep soils with good water retention, over a base of red Devonian slate. Wines from the Herrenberg show fruit and body early in their lives, but also possess extraordinary ageing potential.

The Bruderberg

The smallest of the vineyards, covering just 1 hectare, the Bruderberg provided wine for the monks (or ‘brothers’). The site has the same Devonian slate soil as the Abtsberg next door, and the wines are very spicy, sometimes with a rustic slaty mineral quality. They are classified entirely as Qualitätswein, and have great ageing potential.

Work in the Maximin Grünhaus vineyards is conducted in close harmony with nature. Fertilisation is predominantly organic, and the vineyards have been planted with a cover crop of wild herbs and grasses. We use no pesticides or herbicides, maintaining the health of the grapes through intensive manual work instead.

To ensure quality, yields are restricted to around 45 - 55 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha); other quality estates in the Mosel average around 80 hl/ha. The grapes are harvested by hand and, depending on the character of the vintage, several passes may be made through the vineyard.

Vinification

At the beginning of 2004, Stefan Kraml took charge of viticulture and viniculture at Grünhaus. Since that time, the wines of the estate have benefited from his uncompromisingly high standards.

The main grape variety at Grünhaus is, and always will be Riesling, which makes up 94% of the total. A hectare of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois was harvested for the first time in 2008. In 2007, a further hectare was planted with Pinot Noir, for the first time in 150 years.

The Grünhaus cuverie is sited conveniently close to the vineyards so that harvested grapes can be delivered to the press within a matter of minutes. Depending on the requirements of the harvest, the grapes can be macerated or subjected to whole bunch pressing in a modern pneumatic press. After natural clarifying overnight via sedimentation, the musts are brought to an optimal fermentation temperature, and fermented with naturally occurring wild yeasts in classic large oak casks (Fuder casks) or small stainless steel tanks. This promotes the optimal development of mineral flavours from the slate soil and ensures the longevity of the Rieslings.

Neither the must nor the finished wine are fined. In the last two years the wood for the barrels has come from the estate’s own forests, and the barrels are crafted by a local cooper.