Robert Groffier

This important Burgundy domaine has been in the family for 4 generations, with the majority of vineyard holdings acquired by Jules Groffier (father of Robert) in the 1930s. He experimented with estate-bottling before the war, but economic conditions were not favourable and the majority of the wine was sold in bulk until 1973. The wines have had a good reputation for many years now, but with the arrival of Robert's son Serge, the domaine has been catapulted into what The Wine Advocate describes as "superstar status".

Serge devotes his attention and considerable energy to the vineyards, and the result is quite simply outstanding fruit quality. Ploughing and hoeing the soil, the elimination of chemical sprays and fertilisers, adapting vine training to open the canopy, rigorous debudding and removal of excess vegetative growth - all these contribute to low yields of truly ripe, concentrated grapes. The style of vinification extracts good colour and sufficient tannins, as well as terroir typicity and the soft, sensual fruit that characterises great Chambolle. Even the Clos de Bèze, the biggest and most masculine of Groffier's wines, has a seductive charm that connoisseurs the world over find impossible to resist. As with all the great Burgundy domaines, quantities available are pitifully low, and prices correspondingly steep, but the sheer hedonistic pleasure of these wines fully justifies the financial sacrifice required.

The Groffier residence and cellars are located at the southern end of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Strangely enough, the domaine does not possess a single vine in Morey, but instead has significant holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin and particularly Chambolle-Musigny. These include the largest single parcel of 'cult' 1er Cru Amoureuses (that most critics rate Grand Cru standard).

The Bourgogne Rouge comes from vines a stone's throw from the Clos de Vougeot, but on the wrong side of the road; the village Gevrey is from the single vineyard of Les Seuvrées, just below the Grand Cru Mazoyères-Chambertin. The 1er Cru vineyards are all on the best middle section of the slope, and face east/southeast - Sentiers below Bonnes-Mares, Haut-Doix and Amoureuses next door to Le Musigny.

The grapes are hand-picked, with a first selection in the vineyard and a second on the sorting table. The proportion of stems retained depends on the vintage, though it is generally lower than before. The musts are sulphured and left for a 5 -6 day maceration at ambient temperatures, before selected yeasts are introduced to start fermentation. Temperatures quickly climb to a high 35°C, ensuring good extraction of 'matière', colour and tannin. This is reinforced by a vigorous regime of 3-4 pigeages per day, and some pumping over. Temperatures drop back, and maceration is prolonged a further 5 days at the end of fermentation.

The young wine is drawn off into barrel for the malolactic, after which it is partially racked and left on the fine lees. Groffier uses Vosges oak, with 80% new wood for the Amoureuses and Grands Crus, 60% for the other 1ers Crus and second-year barrels for his 'lesser' cuvées. Bottling takes place after 12 to 18 months, depending on how the wines are progressing. There is only one complete racking, and neither fining nor filtration before bottling.

Year after year the Domaine Robert Groffier produces wines that rank with the greatest in Burgundy. Not only are they elegant, rich and concentrated, but each "cru" truly reflects its respective "terroir". A high proportion of old vines, ... 40 years and more, as well as prime locations and constant attention to the vines during the growing season, all contribute to the greatness of the Groffier estate.
The work in the vineyards with two green harvests and one "effeuillage" is followed by two "tries" during the harvest, cold maceration of the grapes during one week, ageing on the lies, no racking, no fining and no filtration.
The vineyards, mostly in one complete plot within each cru, are split as follows :

0.75 Ha Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
(on gravel/sandy soil near Morey with a high proportion of Pinot Noir. - same care and ageing as a 1er Cru).
1.40 Ha Bourgogne Rouge
(accross the road from Clos Vougeot and a little at Morey St Denis - has the power and depth of "villages" wine).
0.82 Ha Gevrey Chambertin
(from 2 well located plots of old vines).
1.10 Ha Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Haux Doix 
(in one plot near Les Amoureuses).
1.07 Ha Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers
(in one plot ... near Bonnes Mares).
1.10 Ha Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
(in one plot ... mostly old vines).
0.98 Ha Bonnes Mares - Grand Cru
(a big slice of old vines from a total of 15 hectares on the Morey St Denis side, making a more powerful and concentrated Bonnes Mares than most).
0.42 Ha Chambertin - Clos de Bèze - Grand Cru
(in one plot, old vines, grand cru Burgundy at its full potential).