Roc de Cambes

Roc de Cambes is a jewel. This is François Mitjavile of St-Emilion's Tertre Roteboeuf Côtes de Bourg property and there is certainly something reminiscent of Tertre Roteboeuf here, albeit on a larger scale; a natural amphitheatre with a perfect aspect overlooking the Gironde. 
Roc de Cambes comprises fourteen hectares of old vines, 45 years on average Vines are planted on the most highly reputed slope of the Côtes (les Croutes), where the heat of the sun on the slope is regulated by the effects of the estuary, permitting regular growth and wonderfully ripe, concentrated fruit. Essentially François Mitjavile’s approach in the Côtes de Bourg mirrors that at Tertre Roteboeuf, in a region with great, but often unrealised, potential. Roc de Cambes always had great promise but François has made it flourish.

At Roc de Cambes, as at Tertre Roteboeuf, the soil is clay-limestone and, similarly, the earth is cool and takes time to warm up in the spring, naturally impeding anything other than late maturity. This has too often been overlooked by farmers who insist on picking too early and who, in any case, are unwilling or financially incapable of restricting growth. 

François has brought his experience and philosophy into play, controlling vigour and picking often as late as a month after his neighbours, though this is not a predetermined idea; François picks as and when the grapes are ready. The vine density is 5,500 to 7,000 per hectare though François feels the latter is a little high. He has succeeded, with son Louis, in creating a wine which has led to many an embarrassing moment at blind tastings when it has been very favourably compared to received “great” wines, first growths included. This is why it is difficult to judge Roc de Cambes and its pricing. It is in a class of its own and a truly great wine by any standards.

Bourg is richly steeped in history. Situated where the rivers Garonne and Dordogne meet, it was of particular strategic importance during the long and violent 100 Years War. It is believed that the cellars of Roc de Cambes, built in the 14th century, may well have played a role as a vantage point for an attack from the rear. The area is peppered with caves which have given up their military role in favour of more passive pursuits; mushroom growing and, in the case of Roc de Cambes, wine. 

Once François Mitjaville had established Tertre Rôteboeuf, it was clear that its tiny production would always be a limiting factor in terms of any economies of scale. However, expansion within the great terroirs of St-Emilion would have been nigh on impossible – unavailable and, certainly, unaffordable. Through a mutual friend, François became aware of a possible property for sale in the Côtes de Bourg – an area whose reputation was largely blighted by failure to stifle naturally prolific production. 

On seeing the property, the die was cast. Roc de Cambes has a wow factor in spades and despite a high price tag in appellation terms it still offers fabulous value for money. François was hooked.