The range begins with the Brut Réserve, a blend of 70% wines from the base year with the balance reserve wines, composed from approximately one-third each of the three major varieties. A model of harmony, nuance and verve, it is a pure expression of the domaine’s varied terroirs that demonstrates both the Bérêche brothers great skill and their originality.
The Brut Réserve is followed by five compelling cuvées, all of them aged under cork, that are coveted by grower Champagne connoisseurs for their unique character and complexity.
Les Beaux Regards is the blanc de blancs, sourced primarily from vines planted in 1902 by Raphaël’s great-grandfather and les Clos (planted in 1970 with massale selection) in the domaine’s home village of Ludes. These ancient vines give Les Beaux Regards its deep concentration and intensely chalky minerality,
Beaux Regards’ counterpart in the Bérêche lineup is the Rive Gauche, a blanc de noirs of pure Pinot Meunier from nearly half century old vines, planted in chalky-clay in Le Port à Binson in the Vallée de la Marne. The purity, intensity and elegance of its expression, both of variety and terroir, sets it apart from the handful of other top all-Meunier Champagnes being made today, evoking the spirit of the bohemian Parisian community of the same name.
The Bérêche rosé, Campania Remensis, uses the Roman name for the countryside around Reims. It also comes from a single terroir, the village of Ormes, just west of Reims in the Petite Montagne. It is two-thirds Pinot Noir—including a small percentage of still wine for color—with the balance Chardonnay. It is, like all of the domaine’s wines, a Champagne of unusual originality and elegance, thanks to its unique site and the approach of its makers.
Unusually, Raphaël and Vincent even take the single village approach with their vintage Champagne, Le Cran, equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the best sites in Ludes, the domaine’s hometown on the Montagne de Reims.
Planted with old vines in two lieux-dits at the village’s chalky mid-slope “sweet spot”, Le Cran is a Champagne that, as Raphaël told Peter Liem “demonstrates that there is much more minerality in the mid-slope of a premier cru than at the base of the slope in a grand cru.” So magically intense and rich, yet not heavy, is Le Cran’s expression of Ludes that it is made every year as “a true picture of the terroir” in that particular growing season.
Arguably the most original of all in this lineup of singular Champagnes is the Reflet d’Antan, one-third each of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, drawn from a solera of 600 liter barrels begun in 1985 by Raphaël’s and Vincent’s father, Jean-Pierre.
Every year two-thirds of the wine in each barrel is drawn off and replaced with that from the latest vintage. The result is a rivetingly complex Champagne that seamlessly marries endless richness, texture and depth and with starting freshness and lift.
All five micro-cuvées offer a unique expression of the domaine’s terroirs, and the artisanal methods used in making them further put their distinct characters in sharp relief. And in two years, there will be a sixth: a single vineyard grand cru Champagne from Mailly.
Each parcel of vines is vinified and aged separately in barrel with its ambient yeasts. Raphaël and Vincent make certain that the wines do not go through malolactic to balance their richness and depth with bright acidity. And aging en tirage is under cork for the enhanced development of character and aromatic complexity that this brings to the wines. Finally, each bottle is disgorged by hand and minimally dosed to preserve the purity of its expression.