A lot has changed in the legendary wine-making region of Piemonte. Over the past two decades a new wave of producers has emerged in the region, revealing different personalities of the majestic nebbiolo grape. And to their credit, the modernists have made Barolo more approachable. However, Barolo is a wine of patience and, like the great wine-making regions of Europe, it possesses an ancient, glorious past that cannot be forgotten. There is a ...
Bartolo's daughter, Maria Teresa, makes her wine the same way her father did 50 years ago, through techniques that go back centuries and which were inherited when he was an apprentice under his father, Giulio, one of the true icons of Barolo. Despite his owning vines on the prestigious Cannubi hilltop, Mascarello's wine is not a cru selection; it is a blend from Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. The approach is simple: low yields and ripe...
Her entrance into the winery obviously began with faithfully applying the family’s traditional philosophy, which specifies lengthy macerations and patient smoothing out in large oak botti, and certainly not in the barriques of which her father is a declared enemy, going so far as to post his diatribes right on various bottle labels; but thanks to her fine, feminine sensitivity, she has already made a personal contribution by improving the arom...
She is just as exacting in her view of what Barolo should be as her father was. As she told Antonio Galloni, “The idea of a perfect wine doesn’t exist. I am trying to make an honest wine, one that reflects all of the qualities of our territory, both its strengths as well as its flaws. There are only a few sites that can really give expressive wines. Our ancestors used to look at the hills in the winter, and where the snow melted first, they pl...
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