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    12° C Light rain
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    19:35 PM
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    95 Tb
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    132
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    43
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The 2013 Burgundy Vintage by Etienne Grivot

Following a mild, wet winter, the 2013 vintage finally declared itself ready rather late.  On April 25, a frank start for the vegetation was induced by temperatures over 10°C above normal. Early May however brought frightfully cold weather with temperatures 15° lower than the seasonal average plus abundant rain. We immediately observed aborted grapes. 


May 24 brought a near catastrophe with a morning temperature of 0 to 1°C. 
June began with good weather and a nice northeast wind. In consideration of the vines, it was evident that the cold had given us the boost we needed to endure this nail-biting period. 
June 20 recorded hot weather if not a heat wave. The flowering had barely begun and storms were menacing. 
July 2 the climatic conditions were manifestly stable. Although spared from hail storms the overall flowering appeared very uneven. 
In July and early August, the excellent summer conditions incited a great spurt of growth. In spite of this the vineyard remained behind schedule. 
On August 25 ripening seemed considerably laborious. The days were warm but nights cold. 
Beginning of September brought more cold and rain. It was not until mid-September that the temperatures finally stabilized with nice blue skies and a light NE wind.

 

Needless to say 2013 was decried as having had a difficult vegetative cycle! And yet, although late toward the end of September, the grapes looked incredibly healthy. Even if the sugar content was not quite up to par, the skins were beautiful and seeds quite ripe. All we could do was to wait!

We began harvest on October 5. I compared this vintage immediately and intuitively with 1978. Thanks to my aunt Jacqueline Jayer’s conscientious habit of writing detailed notes on a daily basis, I was able to observe two significant similarities between the two vintages 2014 - 1978. In both cases there was a late harvest date - October 8 for 1978. Furthermore there was a noticeable lack of seeds, and occasionally a single atrophied one in a normal-sized berry.

At this point the vines had two priorities: allow the seeds to ripen so they could generate new seedlings, and restore the starch reserves to better endure winter and insure their own longevity. Due to the lack of seeds, the vines were able to regain their energy reserve very rapidly and eventally match the good quality of the skins. As a result we had an incredibly good vintage.

The wines are deep and dense with an intense robe, indicating a judicious compromise between pulp and energy. I adore this vintage and am convinced that, like its predecessor of 1978, it will, at one stage in its life, be both qualified as voluptuous and endowed with a lovely freshness.

 

 

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History

The Grivot family originated in the Jura before moving to the Hautes Côtes and then finally settling in Vosne-Romanée, where the domaine was established by Gaston Grivot just after the First World War. He traded some lesser plots to get his hands on some Clos Vougeot and so the domaine began its long journey to the top, where it proudly nestles today, recognised as one of the finest estates in the Côte de Nuits. Gaston was succeeded by his son Jean, who in turn was succeeded in 1987 by his son Etienne, who still leads the domaine today. He is assisted by his children, especially Mathilde, who appears to have an innate understanding of winemaking. 
 

 

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Vineyards

The domaine is blessed with a lot of old vines (the youngest are at least forty years old) and coupled with the high density planting produce a lot of small berries and resultant small yields. About 5% of the harvest is kept as whole bunch. New oak is around 25% for the village wines, around 45% for the 1ers Crus and around 60% for the Grands Crus. All the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
There have been changes in the winemaking style over the past decade and it’s true to say that the wines are finer with less extraction now than in the 1990s. The quality of tannins and the aromatics are now uber refined.

 

The age of our vines are 40 years and older. The small size of our many plots means that we are unable to carry out uprooting of vines by sector. In order to maintain a high and reasonable average age, and because we like our old vines and the small grapes they provide us with, planting-out is perfectly suitable. Each vine stock that dies is systematically replaced.

Plantation density is 11,000 vine stocks per hectare. The high density and competition between vine stocks contributes to the low yields and obliges the vines to dig deep down into the sub-soil for the nutriments and water that they need.

A very low amount of organic fertiliser is used. I avoid using weed-killers and the crop practices I use help me to improve the structure and microbial life of the soils. All of our estate is ploughed; today, on three hectares, a horse pulls the plough. Plant protection in the vineyards is conducted using sustainable organic farming practices in respect for the environment.

Each year, I carry out green harvesting and a slight amount of leaf-removal on the northern or eastern sides, depending on the aspect of the plot. Such work is of great importance in relation to quality.

I determine the harvesting dates by regularly visiting and checking the vineyards, taking samples for analysis and tasting the grapes.

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Winemaking

Precise instructions are given to the grape-pickers and the grapes are sorted on the sorting tables in the vat house. Only perfectly ripe and healthy grapes are kept. The bunches are 95% destalked.

The harvest is transferred to the vats using small trolleys in order to maintain its integrity. The juice is cooled in order to undergo a pre-fermentation phase ranging between 4 and 6 days. The yeasts are activated naturally and fermentation takes place thanks to and only with indigenous yeasts. Daily re-circulation is carried out, along with checks on temperature and density. On average, the vatting process lasts 17 days.

In order to obtain balance and harmony, which I personally believe to be the most important qualities of a wine, each year I need to adapt the wine-making process to the profile of the vintage. Wisdom and compromise rather than dogma and fundamentalism are the watchwords.

The wine is matured for 18 months in oak wood barrels, a third of which are new and come from the forests in the Allier and Nievre areas. The proportion of new barrels varies depending on the vintage’s profile. It is around 25% for the villages appellation, 30% to 60% for the first growths and 40% to 70 % for the grand crus great growths.

During maturing, I rack the wine twice on average. When the time comes, each batch of wine is blended in the vats. Bottling takes place without fining or filtering and in accordance with the moon’s movements as well as atmospheric pressure. The estate only makes and bottles wine from its own vineyards.

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16 different wines with 70 vintages

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