Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron

When Jean-Jacques Confuron fell ill in 1982, wife Andrée and daughter Sophie took charge of a sleeping giant among Burgundy domaines. The vines were superbly located in many of the Côte de Nuits' best sites, but the cellars were outdated and the majority of stock was customarily sold to local négociants. Everything changed when Sophie Confuron enrolled at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune: she not only discovered a natural talent for winemaking, but also met Alain Meunier, now her husband. The young couple returned to the domaine in 1988, and instigated a veritable quality revolution. New cellars were constructed in 1989, equipped with the latest technology including pneumatic presses and temperature-control systems. In the vineyards, yields have been significantly reduced, and from 1991 onwards the domaine has been fully "biologique". The wine is no longer sold in bulk, but instead every last bottle is distributed on a tight allocation basis to key customers all around the world.

Alain and Sophie share winemaking responsibilities, and have between them developed a house style that emphasises luscious, rounded fruit and soft, velvety tannins. The initial cold soak produces deep colour and the right tannins; closed vats and strict temperature control during fermentation maximise fresh, intense fruit flavours and aromas; new oak adds hedonistic appeal, with low yields ensuring that the wines have enough concentration to absorb and balance this oak. The results are quite simply irresistible.

Overwhelming demand has led Alain to create a new "super-négociant" operation, buying grapes which he vinifies and ages with the same care and attention lavished on the J.J. Confuron domaine wines. These are sold under the Féry-Meunier label - see separate factsheet for more details.

The cellars are in the small village of Prémeaux, just 2km south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Vineyard holdings in Nuits include Les Fleurières, just below 1er cru Pruliers, and the excellent 1er Cru Boudots on the border with Vosne, just a stone's throw from La Tache. The Chambolle 1er cru comes from two vineyards in the heart of the commune - Les Châtelots and Les Feusselottes. Vosne-Beaux-Monts is directly above Echezeaux, while the domaine's holding in the Clos Vougeot is located in the highest quality upper section of the vineyard.

Rocky limestone marls, with varying proportions of clay depending on the vineyard.

Côte de Nuits Villages, Les Vignottes (1.3 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Fleurières (1.2 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Les Chaboeufs (0.5 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Aux Boudots (0.3 ha)
Chambolle-Musigny (1.2 ha)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (0.4 ha)
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Les Beaux-Monts (0.3 ha)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (0.5 ha)
Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (0.5 ha)

The reds are sorted and destemmed, but not crushed. There is a cold, pre-fermentation maceration of 4 to 6 days to extract colour and soft, velvety tannins; the vats remain closed to preserve freshness. Gentle heating induces fermentations, which continue for 12 days at temperatures of around 30°C, with 3 pigeages a day. The young wine is drawn off into barrel for malolactic and subsequent ageing of 15 to 18 months. The Grands Crus see up to 100% new oak, the 1ers Crus 70%. Racking is kept to a minimum, and there is neither fining nor filtration before bottling.

Average age of the vines

Village level: 20 to 35 years old
Both 1ers Crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges: 45 years old
Chambolle and Vosne 1ers Crus: 50 years old
Clos Vougeot: 35 years old
Romanée Saint-Vivant: nearly 80 years old

Average production

Between 30 and 35 000 bottles per year.