Domaine Robert Chevillon

One of the greatest of the Burgundy estates, Robert Chevillon is for many commentators THE reference in Nuits St Georges. Firstly, there is nothing but Nuits made here. Secondly, there is an exhaustive range of crus, showing the different personalities of the different sites - tasting here constitutes a practical and fascinating lesson in 'terroir'. Thirdly, the domaine has maintained some extraordinarily old vines, ensuring a rare degree of concentration. And fourthly, the wines manage to showcase all the richness and power of Nuits, but finished with polish and grace. They truly reflect the characteristics of the appellation at its very best.

The Chevillon domaine operates out of the backstreets of Nuits-Saint-Georges, with a fine range of vineyard holdings on both sides of the village. To the north, towards Vosne-Romanée, one finds Les Chaignots and Les Bousselots. To the south, the thin strip of 1er Crus at around 250m altitude runs from Les Pruliers, through Roncières and Perrières (a little higher) to the 'golden triangle' of Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges. This is regarded as the best land in the appellation, perhaps worthy of Grand Cru status.

To the north, the limestone bedrock is covered in pebbles, limestone debris and clay. To the south, the limestone is harder; Pruliers and Roncières have a thin topsoil, stony and low in clay; Cailles and Les Saint-Georges have a deeper limestone and clay soil, Vaucrains is marked by a darker ironstone content.

Chevillon believes in a long, slow vinification, with extraction of colour and tannins during and after fermentation rather than before. Cuvaisons last 3 to 4 weeks, sometimes longer. Temperatures are allowed to rise to 35°C before cooling coils are inserted into the vats. Malolactic conversions progress at their own pace, and the young wines are left on their fine lees for most of the first year. Use of new oak is limited - 25-30% for the 1ers Crus, virtually none for the lesser cuvées. The wines are bottled after 16-18 months, following a fining and very light filtration.

Robert Chevillon undoubtedly makes better wine than virtually any other grower in Nuits-Saint-Georges - all the critics agree on this. The question is why, and the answer disarmingly straightforward: he doesn't do anything wrong ! Vines are allowed to grow old, replaced one by one as they die; debudding and green pruning further limit the crop of these naturally low-yielding vines, ensuring concentration and character. Each parcel is picked at its own moment of optimum ripeness, even if this means that some vineyards come in long before others. There are no clever cold-soakings or low temperature fermentations, just a good, long cuvaison. Both vinification and ageing are directed with an attentive but patient, 'hands-off' approach. Terroir is not hidden behind a mask of new oak and winemaker-imposed style, so that each vineyard cuvée has its own unique personality.

The Chaignots and Bousselots show the softer, Vosne-like style found to the north of Nuits; the other 1er crus are classic Nuits-Saint-Georges - sturdy, masculine, with chewy tannins and hints of rusticity. Particularly impressive are the Cailles, Vaucrains and Saint-Georges itself, where very old vines have amplified the concentration and character of these great vineyards. The village cuvée includes all the young vines from the 1ers Crus, giving it extra complexity.

There have been Chevillons in the district for many generations, but when Robert started working, the domaine covered only 3 hectares, selling entirely in bulk. He is too modest to admit it, but the fame and reputation of this estate is virtually all due to Robert's own hard work. He is now joined by his two sons, Denis and Bertrand, who are hopefully learning just how clever it is to keep things simple.