Evlio Cogno

Elvio Cogno first came up with the idea to produce wine at the Ristorante dell’Angelo in La Morra, between tables and hungry patrons. Class of 1936 and originally from Novello, Elvio Cogno’s family had been cultivating grapevines for generations, but no one had thought of turning that work into a job.

The wine that the Cogno family began to produce did more than serve diners at their restaurant; it soon distinguished itself as a product of excellence. It was so successful that by the end of the 1950s, with the support of a business partner and the growing prestige of his wines, Elvio Cogno decided to leave the restaurant business and produce wine full time. He began by collaborating with the Marcarini winery, who managed splendid vineyards in Brunate in the township of La Morra, cultivating nebbiolo destined for Barolo.

Elvio’s work became ever more oriented towards higher quality production and developing the incredible potential of the wines of the Langhe. The first Barolo that the Cogno family bottled was the great vintage of 1961. Just three years later in 1964, far ahead of his times, Elvio Cogno decided to write the name of the vineyard on the label: Brunate. It was a sign of pride and knowledge of the uniqueness of his wines and of the terroir that helped to create them.

To improve upon a wine that already comes from one of the world’s most prestigious terroirs, there is only one road to take: study and know the vineyards, their soil, and the natural and man-made environment that surrounds them. It is during this phase that the soul of the wine forms; and it is when the work of the viticulturist understands and interprets its character, allowing the grapes to express their differences.

Elvio Cogno proceeded with vineyard management with this mindset, emphasizing the idea that true progress in the enological field coincides with agriculture and organic practices, believing that methods and interventions should be practiced in full respect of the environment, humans, and workers. Sustainability is the winery’s long-term goal.

Therefore, the winery began the conversion towards organic production several years ago for practices that will be followed once European certification is obtained. In addition to certification, the winery ensures a healthy vineyard ecosystem and environmental biodiversity by eliminating synthetic treatments and fertilizers in the vineyards and the use of chemicals and invasive practices in the cellars.

The Cogno family

The Cogno family has been making wine in the Langhe area for four generations. After a long and fruitful partnership with the venerable Barolo producer Marcarini at La Morra, in 1990 Elvio Cogno bought a splendid and historic 18th-century farmhouse situated at the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello. (Novello is one of the 11 communes in Piedmont in which Barolo is produced.) The farm was surrounded by 11 hectares (27.18 acres) of steeply sloping vineyards. Elvio restored the manor, converted the old granaries to wine cellars and founded his own, eponymous winery. For the next 20 years he devoted himself to the winemaking traditions that had been handed down to him by his father and grandfather. Paying special attention to the indigenous varietals and old vines, Elvio recognized that his vineyards enjoyed a unique microclimate, optimal exposure and exceptional drainage.

Elvio has now passed the torch to his daughter, Nadia, and her husband, Valter Fissore, who has worked beside Elvio for 25 years. Following in the footsteps of Elvio the maestro, his son-in-law and daughter continue to produce elegant wines without altering the traditions, styles and flavors of the Langhe, with its breathtaking quilted landscape and unique grape varieties.

“Proprietors Valter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are at the top of their game. . .” affirms Antonio Galloni (Vinous Media 2012). As the winemaking team, Valter and Nadia agree that minimal intervention in the winery gives the fullest expression of their terroir and a sense of place to their wines. While honoring tradition, Nadia and Valter have introduced a freshness and innovative approach to their winemaking.

Their meticulously groomed vineyards of varietals native to the Piedmont area are organically cultivated, adding nothing to the environment that would compromise the purity and precision of the wines. Yields are kept very low, respecting the natural balance of the vines, some of which are very old indeed.

Joining in the family enterprise is Nadia’s and Valter’s daughter, Elena, who designs their labels. A drawing of a baby chick, made for her parents when she was only three years old, shows her special talent and adorns the Vigna Elena Barolo label, a wine produced only in great vintages. This was the beginning of an artistic collaboration that continues today, as the graphic artist, Elvio’s granddaughter, gives a fresh look to these classic wines.