History
One doesn’t often hear a vintner threatening to dethrone terroir,and I suppose I must sound sacrilegious. But before all this began, I was an avid wine lover and consumer. From an affordable bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I quickly progressed to 1990 J.L. Chave Cathelin, 2010 Leflaive Montrachet, 1990 DRC Romanee-Conti, 1961 Haut-Brion, 1982 Le Pin, and so on.
My approach to wine appreciation—call it “criticism,” perhaps—is to look for fau...