Peter Gago

PENFOLDS II CABERNET SHIRAZ 2019 / Dark and deep; brilliant/bright hue; purple core. Quite captivating - unlike whatever varietal and sourcing stats listed above might predict – invoking uniqueness/‘otherness’/intrigue. An admirable liveliness and vivacity is instantly recognised – Overheard: “As fresh as a new dawn in summer, such generosity rarely detected in winter!”
An amalgam of scents: licorice root and slated black liquorice (réglisse), white pepper, black candy.The afore-mentioned candy appears to ever-so-gradually transition to spiciness, with air. Whilst sitting in glass more Middle Eastern/ African spices slowly arise.
Oak remains backstage, detected via a subtle smokiness, and possibly a perceived nuttiness (crushed Brazil nut, unsalted cashew). Different, yet engaging. Beckons ...

An immediate recognition – all is complete and balanced; in proportion, dimensionally full and generous.
When approached sideways/laterally – “You get the whole, before the parts.” Shiraz coats the cabernet yet still supporting a classic cabernet graphite core.
Flavours, aromatically itemised above, merge to the palate – retronasally with this wine what you smell is certainly what you taste!
A lovely weave/texture (not a film) – whilst velvety, granularity of tannins is still apparent. These tannins (and acidity) act as a conveyance for fruit.
Yes, an engaging acid liveliness and vivacity – akin to the mouth-watering acidity inherent in many Japanese dishes.
Length and persistence – manifested ever-so-softly, with a mineral stamp on the finish.
Certainly a thought-provoking, dare we say, cerebral wine

Penfolds Grange 2014 / A Grange to create new friends – this 2014 offering a subtly different structural mosaic; different tone and timbre.

In 1973, Penfolds crafted an experimental Bin 170 sourced entirely from the nineteenth-century Kalimna Vineyard in the Barossa Valley. 100% Shiraz, all of the grapes were picked from Block 3C – a venerated parcel that is often included in the Grange blend. In 2010, the Penfolds winemakers kept Block 3C separate, realising they had the potential to re-create a Penfolds classic.

After a dry South Australian 2013 winter reminiscent of 2006, vines were in water de cit at the beginning of spring and became accustomed to dry conditions quite early. Early budburst was a consistent theme across all regions within South Australia. Spring started with cool temperatures in the south east. The Barossa Valley enjoyed some warmer days, dispersed throughout October and November. Whilst canopies were small to moderate, they were healthy and balanced and contributed to even veraison and consequent ripening. Warmer temperatures were observed after the New Year and persisted throughout most of January, contributing to an early start to the 2013 harvest and a short, condensed vintage. Dry and warm conditions, coupled with lower than average yields in most regions resulted in Shiraz showing strong, structural tannins, wines of great intensity and intense avour.

Magenta. Purple core.

Instantly, a distillation of all that is St Henri.
A heightened ethereal/subliminal fruit lift... hovering above, cleverly propelled by just the right amount of formics and V.A.
Black jelly-bean and star anise notes arise, augmented by g paste, dried herbs and spice – cinnamon and thyme.
With air, scents of freshly-cured corned beef with a carpaccio-like freshness, replete with capers/ vinegar/brine.

Youthful. Structurally expansive – large-framed/amply-dimensioned!
St Henri aims to please - pickled beetroot for the vegetarians; gamey venison and the blackened crust of roast beef for the carnivores.
Wild blackberry and a dark-fruited compote benevolently offer a generosity of fruit sweetness. An almost silky tarriness coupled with mouth-watering acidity create a texturally appealing and integrated mouthfeel.