<10 tasting notes
Here is another Nikolaihof offering that I was given a rare opportunity to taste prior to bottling. But perhaps the Saahs family will rethink their generosity with sneak previews, given that I now feel compelled to publish a substantially updated tasting note to reflect the significantly more impressive showing delivered by this wine a year after its late summer 2016 bottling. As before, the nose is head-turningly complex, offering black tea and Latakia tobacco smokiness, coriander-seed pungency, high-toned pistachio extract, intimations of red currant, lime and white peach and a remarkable array of mineral and animal intimations: sea breeze, sweat, wet stone, oyster liquor and mussel stock. What I earlier described as a “silken and expansive yet buoyant palate” has taken on an almost custardy richness. Yet the accompanying juicy brightness of fruit – now including a tang of fresh ripe tomato – has by no means diminished in animation, intensity or sheer refreshment. The vibrant finish tugs at one’s salivary glands with suggestions of urchin roe and shellfish stock while delivering a kaleidoscope of herbal, mineral and fruity diversity.
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