Hand picked, 40% whole bunch pressed, a selection of Dijon clones (76, 95, 96 and 277), matured in French oak (25% new) for 10 months. If you ask Bill about chardonnay clones, his response is steeped in decades of experience and knowledge. The Pannells spent many years in Burgundy as part owners of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, and through their time there, forged enduring friendships with producers and commentators. Bill’s perspective on chardonnay clones was strongly influenced by the famous Burgundian Chardonnay maker Vincent Leflaive, and that is that no one clone will produce the best, most complex chardonnay, rather a reliance on the correct selection will produce a wine of greater complexity and balance. Bill brought these clones into Western Australia in the 1990’s, and they are now milling around the 20 year old mark. What we have in the glass, from a ripe and powerful vintage such as 2020, is a taut, voluminous and spicy wine. There is the curry leaf and brine that I look for from the ferment, there is pink grapefruit, white peach and lemon pith from the clones, and the volume of flavour and intensity, which springs from the vintage in which the grapes were grown. A marvellous wine, which year on year is better than the last. Can’t wait to drink this over the coming days (if it makes it that far) and watch how it evolves. A beautiful wine of supreme elegance and poise.