2013 Petrus / Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, red berries, anise, floral, detailed, nuanced, bright if leaner nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, some spices, juicy, elegant texture, long finish. Very smooth. 95

Exceptional Château Margaux tasting from vintage 1865 with plenty of rare "off-vintages".  /  Château Margaux 1865 bottle looks almost too pristine to be true, but let's taste it before passing judgment.  It has a deep garnet color, displaying its age with subtle hints of brick-orange at the rim. Helathy aromas of dried dark fruits, such as prunes and blackberries, mingle with earthy notes of leather and tobacco. Medium-bodied, the palate reveals flavors of dried berries and plums, complemented by nuances of forest floor and a touch of vanilla and forest. The tannins are alive contributing to a bit sharp and thin texture that coats the palate. The finish is moderate in length, with notes of dried fruit and a hint of dried herbs, leaving a decent and mature impression. 

For me this bottle was real, but as we all know, you can never be sure with these very old bottles. But wherever the truth may lie, this bottle is a particularly pleasant, rare, and historic experience.

In 1865, the year of this vintage, marked significant historical events worldwide. It was the year when the American Civil War came to an end with the surrender of the Confederate forces to the Union army at Appomattox Court House, Virginia, symbolizing the reunification of the United States. Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, the construction of the iconic Château Margaux was well underway, representing a milestone in the estate's history and Bordeaux's winemaking heritage.

A unique Bollinger La Grande Année Jeroboam vertical tasting from 2015 to 1983 with cellar master Denis Bunner. Who says that Magnum format is superior for ageing champagnes.... when it comes to Bollinger, it's Jeroboam!  

This is the last part of wines tasted during the en primeur week in Bordeaux and in Essen. A very interesting tasting period comes to an end. 

Penfolds Grange 2018 – For me, it is simply one of the greatest young Australian wines I have seen. Truly stunning. It is a classic and cracking Grange. 

Like most Granges, a dollop of Cabernet is added to the Shiraz – this time just 3%. Multi-regional but Barossa dominant (69%), with material from McLaren Vale and the Clare Valley, the wine spent 18 months in new American hogsheads. 2018 was simply an outstanding vintage for South Australia. We have seen it with many wines and now we see it here with the Grange. 

Deep magenta in colour, near opaque. The immediate impression here is of great intensity but even more so, impeccable balance. A glorious nose, complete and complex. Black fruits are to the fore, and there is certainly oak evident, but of the finest quality and integrating superbly. The palate is fresh but dense and yet supple and seamless and with such length. Powerful, yet it sings and dances. The tannins are abundant yet so lace-like and silky that they are near invisible. Such an incredibly long finish, with the intensity maintained for the full length. Chocolate notes emerge on the finish. This should sail through 50 to 60 years in good cellars and could probably do up to 80 – not that this will be relevant to many of us. What was fascinating was that after tasting and scribbling notes, I realised that I had hardly identified any specific flavours, such is the overall balance and the way that nothing dominates to any extent, the wine already being such a complete entity. Retracing steps and with further investigation, look for mocha, blackberries, coffee bean notes, cassis, licorice, chocolate, charcuterie, beef stock and soy. Every taste brought forth new and evolving flavours. This is a truly magnificent wine, well on its way to becoming a legend. Not just a legendary Grange, but a legend in the world of wine. 100p.

The Musigny of Champagne was in the glasses when tasting Louis Roederer & Cristal Rosé champagnes with the cellamaster Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon in Grand Champagne Helsinki 2024.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti Grand Cru 2016 /
An expressive Romanee-Conti with great exuberance, intensity and complexity. This is a brilliant vintage for DRC and the Romanee-Conti in this vintage is suprisingly open at this stage. The wine combines everything one would want in a great Burgundy wine – delicacy, purity, depth, complexity, length and seductive flavors. 99 points

The second part of the large en primeur list.

The 1966 Heitz Vineyard Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was an epic bottle, a testament to the heights that Napa can achieve, pun intended!  There was a minty and sexy nose that seeped caramel and eucalyptus.  There was this great herbal complexity that was so expressive.  Insane expression!  ‘So good’ was written over and over in my notes.  The palate was creamy, long and smooth with tasty and fresh caramel flavors.  Divine stuff (98).

Dom Pérignon 2003 P2 / Medium deep golden colour with rather small and vivid bubbles. Pure and intense nose, fine development without oxidation, roasted pine and pistachio nuts with confit de citron, fresh peach and brioche notes. The palate is ample and rather opulent with a rounded acidity yet with a nice fresh bite from fine extract, mild creaminess, nice layers of finely spicy yellow fruit, nougat and nutty flavours with a long and embracing finish. 95p

DRC Romanée-Conti 2015 / Floral aromas as well as irresistible red bramble fruit and a touch of leafy stem aroma too. Persistent and balanced in a way that is quite remarkable, keeping the tannin and acid interlinked right through to the very last echo of flavour. Incredible persistence that keeps delivering flavour. A triumph, combining the excellence of producer, vintage and site in a way that truly deserves the legendary label.  20 points

Château Suduiraut 2010 /Super nose with some exotic pineapple/mango/passion fruit undertones mixed with Vouvray-like blossom-tree and quince jelly, enormous body, but incredible purity and crystal-like transparency, great length, a masterpiece! Drink 2020-2070.