Jeremy Oliver

Henchke Hill of Grace 2015 /"Effortlessly long, smooth and supple, this polished and uber-restrained shiraz unfolds a musky, peppery and faintly meaty bouquet of mulberries, cassis, dark plums, cedar/vanilla oak and paprika backed by suggestions of cola and sweet floral notes. Flaunting its rare restraint and finesse, it reveals layers of pristine translucently clear dark red, blue and black berry flavours supported by a refined, ultra-fine spine of loose-knit tannins and knit with creamy, cedary, cigarboxy oak, building in weight and lasting forever. A very different, distinctive Hill of Grace of exceptional quality and charm."

Penfolds Bin 111A Shiraz 2016 (Clare Valley, Barossa Valley, $1500, 14.5%) A deep, alluring perfume of dark berries, cassis and dark plums knit with smoky, tight-gained French oak slowly unfolds meaty, chocolatey and ferrous undertones backed by suggestions of mint and iodide. Underpinned by a textural, gravelly spine, its layered, densely packed palate of black, red and blue fruits extends with energy, harmony and style towards a measured, lingering finish. There’s an underlying hint of dark chocolate and roasting tray. It will age slowly, developing remarkable grace and elegance.      
 
19.5/20, 98/100, drink 2046-2056+

Penfolds Grange 2014 / 96 points / Sumptuous, smooth and measured; deep dark black, blue and red fruits with leathery, cedary notes, firm pliant tannins and meaty undertones of roasting tray juices. It’s perfumed and spicy, with almost a durif-like wildness and a drying, kernelly finish. It’s an elegant, finer Grange with tight-knit oak that slowly unfolds in the glass, finishing with drive and effortlesslength.                   

Rochford Premier Chardonnay 2017 / 98 points / Extraordinary chardonnay that deftly combines layers of emphatic, translucent fruit with measured winemaking input. Pristine, waxy aromas of grapefruit, white peach, white and yellow flowers and tight-knit vanilla oak overlie notes of ginger, coriander and smoked meats. Its vivacious, assertive core of fruit extends long and deep down a fine, chalky spine, all the while cloaked in creamy, nougat-like complexity and wrapped in an energetic, brittle acidity. A hint of honeysuckle emerges as it finishes. One of the finest Australian chardonnays made to this time. 
 19.5               98                  2025-2029+