Peter Gago

PENFOLDS II CABERNET SHIRAZ 2019 / Dark and deep; brilliant/bright hue; purple core. Quite captivating - unlike whatever varietal and sourcing stats listed above might predict – invoking uniqueness/‘otherness’/intrigue. An admirable liveliness and vivacity is instantly recognised – Overheard: “As fresh as a new dawn in summer, such generosity rarely detected in winter!”
An amalgam of scents: licorice root and slated black liquorice (réglisse), white pepper, black candy.The afore-mentioned candy appears to ever-so-gradually transition to spiciness, with air. Whilst sitting in glass more Middle Eastern/ African spices slowly arise.
Oak remains backstage, detected via a subtle smokiness, and possibly a perceived nuttiness (crushed Brazil nut, unsalted cashew). Different, yet engaging. Beckons ...

An immediate recognition – all is complete and balanced; in proportion, dimensionally full and generous.
When approached sideways/laterally – “You get the whole, before the parts.” Shiraz coats the cabernet yet still supporting a classic cabernet graphite core.
Flavours, aromatically itemised above, merge to the palate – retronasally with this wine what you smell is certainly what you taste!
A lovely weave/texture (not a film) – whilst velvety, granularity of tannins is still apparent. These tannins (and acidity) act as a conveyance for fruit.
Yes, an engaging acid liveliness and vivacity – akin to the mouth-watering acidity inherent in many Japanese dishes.
Length and persistence – manifested ever-so-softly, with a mineral stamp on the finish.
Certainly a thought-provoking, dare we say, cerebral wine

After a dry South Australian 2013 winter reminiscent of 2006, vines were in water de cit at the beginning of spring and became accustomed to dry conditions quite early. Early budburst was a consistent theme across all regions within South Australia. Spring started with cool temperatures in the south east. The Barossa Valley enjoyed some warmer days, dispersed throughout October and November. Whilst canopies were small to moderate, they were healthy and balanced and contributed to even veraison and consequent ripening. Warmer temperatures were observed after the New Year and persisted throughout most of January, contributing to an early start to the 2013 harvest and a short, condensed vintage. Dry and warm conditions, coupled with lower than average yields in most regions resulted in Shiraz showing strong, structural tannins, wines of great intensity and intense avour.

Magenta. Purple core.

Instantly, a distillation of all that is St Henri.
A heightened ethereal/subliminal fruit lift... hovering above, cleverly propelled by just the right amount of formics and V.A.
Black jelly-bean and star anise notes arise, augmented by g paste, dried herbs and spice – cinnamon and thyme.
With air, scents of freshly-cured corned beef with a carpaccio-like freshness, replete with capers/ vinegar/brine.

Youthful. Structurally expansive – large-framed/amply-dimensioned!
St Henri aims to please - pickled beetroot for the vegetarians; gamey venison and the blackened crust of roast beef for the carnivores.
Wild blackberry and a dark-fruited compote benevolently offer a generosity of fruit sweetness. An almost silky tarriness coupled with mouth-watering acidity create a texturally appealing and integrated mouthfeel.

"The 2009 vintage had a near-optimum rainfall over winter, followed by dry, mild conditions over spring provided a good environment for budburst and an ideal start to the growing season with canopies developing well. Climatic conditions favoured flowering and set with mild and calm weather, however there was some shatter in Shiraz across parts of the state resulting in small crops for many regions. Some early to mid-December summer rainfall was followed by conditions drying up very quickly and continuing until the end of February. Summer was hot with some extreme heat but cool conditions returned in February and March, allowing the fruit to ripen across a long harvest with balanced acidities and excellent tannin ripeness. An elegant, yet still powerful follow up to the conditions brought about in the preceding 2008 vintage."

"Penfolds Grange 2004 / Enticingly fragrant, yet at once 'Grange' - elements of cola, bay-leaf, malt, Indian spices & nougat. An ethereal oriental lift of glazed Peking Duck is interspersed with fermented black Chinese tea. Oak at one with the wine, other aromatics unite to create a continuum of spice & fruit. Impressive. Seamless redefined. Classic Grange structure - tight, defined & balanced, with 'slatey' / sandy tannins. Saturated fruits - blackberry and concentrated Satsuma plum skin. A darkened flavour theme of chocolate, liquorice and fermented black Chinese tea mask any overt presence of new oak, courting a long, effortless finish. Intense, powerful vs. composed, polished - an enviable counter-balance."

"Classic St Henri, 2010 Classic year. Drink now, or in half a century. Comparison? 1996 immediately comes to mind; What did the legendary 1971 St Henri release look like as a four year-old?
NOTE: Purple rim, black core. Blackness prevails... black pudding, black shoe polish (and tanned leather), black liquorice, black olive, black jelly-beans?
Scents of liqueured cherry, saturated dark plum, beetroot and
a cooling humbug peppermint impression.
From beneath, a waft of dark paste – quince/mocha/praline/coffee grind... ristretto (double!)
How much space do we have ? A complex/kaleidoscopic flavour mosaic presides. These flavours appear turbo-charged – liqueured fruits, elderberry, wild raspberry, pomegranate, praline, almond. Full-bodied – rich, dark and concentrated, and yet still chewy, fresh and youthful– potently geared/tuned.
Excellent length – driven by waves of intense fruits, a well of unbridled fine tannins, and a wash of awakening acidity."