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A great flight of Giacosa ensued, although it had the disservice of following these Twin Towers, which had everyone giddy. The first wine was a 1971 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano (not Riserva). Aromas of leather and tar signaled we had moved on to Piedmont, and there was still lots of spice and acid left in this ’71. It was more impressive than I expected, with its leather and spice carrying over to the palate, which had rich fruit and great herbal qualities. Even though this wasn’t a Riserva, it was still damn good. The white label Giacosas still seem to fall under the radar, but if this wine could speak, it would probably say, “Look behind you, I’m about to pass you twice” (95).
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