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An abnormally wet El Niño spring and late summer caused a poor set for the 1998 vintage crop. During the growing season, clusters also were subjected to uneven ripening and threatened with sunburn, sending growers into the vineyard, performing more hand manipulation of the vines and reducing crops. With a later than usual harvest, growers faced the possibility of rains, but nature cooperated with a warm and sunny early autumn. Picking started ...
1998 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: This vintage was disparaged in the press, but this tasting offered another surprisingly good wine. In the past few months, I’ve been surprised by a 1998 Spottswoode Cab and a 1998 Beringer Private Reserve. I think this is testimony to the abilities of accomplished wine makers, who seem to be able to make good wine every year. The Whitehall Lane ’98 Reserve was a fast starter (similar to the Spottswoode), with good bouquet and very appealing dark fruit flavors. It also offered distinctive blueberry overtones and coffee bean notes on the finish. If there is a flaw, it is only that the intensity is a step below the better years and the finish is less expansive. However, on its own, this is a class act. I’d rate it a 93.
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