The Berliner family make three quite extraordinary wines at this Margaret River property. By Australian standards the wines are not bargains, however by contrast with some premium wines from California and elsewhere they are not excessive. The vineyards are all dry-farmed, resulting in deep rooting vines and viticulture is biodynamic. With naturally low vine vigour through close planting the vineyards produce low yields of intensely flavoured grapes. Per- haps the most intriguing of the trio is the Malbec.
There are few examples in Australia and one would have to argue this is the best. It has a tremendous spicy, tobacco quality with structured but very supple tannins and great intensity and balance. For all the quality of the Malbec, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have just a touch more depth and dimension.
The Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the great examples from the Margaret River. There is a balance of dark berry fruits, blackcurrants, and a cedar quality, all of which are balanced by sturdy but very well rounded tan-nins. It’s also worth noting that while alcohol levels are generally going higher and higher in Australia both these redstend to weigh in at just over 13%. That fresh edge certainly adds to their appeal. Finally, while one wouldn’t say it’s a spectacular value the Chardonnay is the best value of these three. Initially restrained and elegant there is an intense citrus quality with very well judged oak. (DM)