Robert Weil Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel 2018/ One might well wonder what could possibly emerge “beyond” the character displayed by this year’s array of Weil BAs and two “regular” TBAs. The answer is a leap into Eszencia traits. The color is significantly paler than that exhibited by those two other TBAs. The nose is dominated by dried and confitured apricot accompanied by candied lemon peel. The wine is so viscous it barely pours. Fresh lemon explodes on the glycerol-slicked palate to meet more than halfway an implosive concentration of apricot and purple plum as well as sky-high residual sugar. Of course this elixir must be characterized as embryonic, but its penetrating persistence is already memorably vibrant and its ability to restrain sweetness extraordinary.”
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