Château Les Ormes-Sorbet 1961

Despite all that has been said, 1961 is not an exceptional vintage in terms of climate. It took a frost during the flowering period in May to reduce the harvest by more than half, and in some cases by as much as two-thirds. The small number of bunches took advantage of the sunshine – which was much cooler than in 1947, 1949 or 1959 – to produce particularly concentrated grapes, which lacked the harmony of the 1982 or 2009. Sadly, the speculative trade had acquired the unfortunate habit of buying the crop ‘on the vine’, as early as March. Many producers harvested less than they sold. It’s understandable that, to satisfy their buyers, they sometimes lengthened their wines. Especially as the light, plentiful 1960 sometimes harmonised with overly powerful 1961s. The true type of 1961 has always had a unique pulpy character. One of the most brilliant and little-known successes of this vintage is to be found in the northern part of the Médoc, which is scandalously neglected these days by the local wine trade. In 1862, the Boivert family bought some fine vines on the limestone plateau of Couquèques. Jean Boivert’s father, who taught me so much about the true traditions of the Médoc, gave preference to Cabernet Sauvignon, which was rare in the area. In 1983, his 1961 (which, alas, now seems to be no more than a memory) had a strength, a brilliance and a velvety texture that equalled and even surpassed what I tasted in many of the crus classés. Hats off to this deserving family, whose wine has rediscovered all its individuality in recent vintages, at an infinitely reasonable price. Needless to say, 1961 was the last sale on stumpage in history.