The 2017 Reserva Grande Rocim is the winery's Alicante Bouschet. It comes in at 15.1% alcohol and was aged for 24 months in new French oak. This is where the winery often lets it all hang out—which is not always a good thing, but this vintage works. It handled the considerable wood aging shockingly well. It doesn't really seem drenched in vanilla, which is not to say that the wood has no impact. One thing the long stay in wood does guarantee is that the character of the Alicante is missing and masked for the moment. This hints at the ability to age well and develop in the cellar. So, give it a couple of years more to see if it acquires some character and nuance. It should. It mostly seems very well balanced this year, which has not always been my impression in the past. In the meanwhile, the concentration, focus and structure make this a potential star. When all is said and done, it will probably be my favorite Grande Rocim yet, although time ultimately must answer that question.
Some of Rocim's wines were delayed in arriving due to myriad shipping problems, often coronavirus-related. So, call this a Part 3. The first and smaller group was in Issue 251, and then some others were in the November Week 2 issue. Rocim is part of Alentejo's sustainability initiative, and it says a significant amount of its vineyards are already certified organic.