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  • Country ranking ?

    1 419
  • Producer ranking ?

    6
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    2020-2035

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Vintage 2013

HARVEST REPORT 2013 RED BURGUNDY

As far as weather was concerned, 2013 was not your typical year. It was at times cool, then hot with severe storms, followed by heavy rains hailstorms and then dry times with some occasional warm periods. It is a vintage that growers are calling the ultimate terroir vintage. Whenever you have a vintage that is not over ripe or alcoholic, or under ripe and very acid, the terroir can show through. This is not a vintage that lacked fruit or acidity or charm, it had all three, but it did not have a lot of power or concentration. This was true for many, and especially those who went for more production, or panicked and harvested too early resulting in the lowest sugars since 2008.

The average temperatures for the first 3 months of the year were 5.4oF cooler than normal. Temps were normal in April; May temps were below normal resulting in a very late flowering – the last time flowering took place that late was in 2008. May was also rainy, 34% above normal rainfall levels. It was rainy in June as well which resulted in uneven flowering with shatter and a bad fruit set. This trend (of bad and uneven fruit set) has been going on since 2010 with 2012 having a particularly poor fruit set.

In July the weather became warmer with periods or rain and a devastating hailstorm on July 23rd. Hardest hit were the communes of Pernand, Savigny les Beaune, Beaune, Pommard Volnay and Meursault. Some of the appellations were so badly hit that 100% of their crop was lost, this was particularly the case in Volnay and Pommard. Some of the same appellations were also hit in 2014 making it 4 years in a row with significant hail damage. The fact that this hailstorm came late in the vegetative cycle caused the wine to have a very dry harsh edge which covered up what little fruit there was to begin with.

The amount of sunlight hours was very low in the first 3 months of the year, 30% below normal. However, in July the amount of sunlight was plus 20 in July and August when it counted most. It did not get really hot during the normal summer months of July and August. There were 8 days in July that hit 86oF and above and only 3 in August with the latter half of the month quite cool. As far as rain was concerned, there was nothing more then a trace from August 1st to the 24th, and then nothing much again until September 9th when 1.02 inches fell. There were periods of rain after the 24th, but nothing serious enough to cause any problems with rot.

The fact that it was cool during the month of August prevented any recurrence of mildew and odium which were problems in early July. The cool weather, plus the late flowering, meant that veraison occurred on August 15th and harvest did not begin until the last week of September. Growers harvested in October for the first time in years – not since 2008. The quality of the fruit was far superior in the Côtes de Nuits, as has been the case for many years, other than in the truly great years where all regions were successful. The fact that full flowering was between June 23rd and the 26th made for a later harvest but possibly one of the reasons that the soils were so expressive in the juice.

I was very surprised at the quality of the 2013’s – the fact that they were very fresh and juicy and low in tannins and were not green. They should be drunk in their youth, but some of them were far greater than I could imagine. It is possible that certain appellations are superior to 2012 in the Côte de Nuits if there was careful attention paid to production or hand sorting. It is not a vintage without problematic wines but there is a lot to enjoy.

As far as pricing is concerned, most wines were the same price as in 2012; no one went down in price and a few growers went up. There is very little wine to be had and prices are high in bulk with so many small crops. I am afraid that the lesser appellations such as Bourgogne Rouge are going to go way up because that was the category that was affordable, the Grand Crus from the Côte de Nuits are only for millionaires now.

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Written Notes

Here the super fresh nose display black pinot fruit, floral and soft earth nuances. The delicious middle weight flavors are lush and relatively concentrated while exhibiting a lovely sense of punch and minerality on the seriously long and powerful finish. Definitely worth considering.

 

I am saddened to report that after a 3 year battle with cancer, Philippe Roty passed away in October 2015 at only 46 years of age. His younger brother Pierre-Jean, together with his mother and sister, will continue operating the domaine. I should note that Pierre-Jean has worked at the domaine all of his life and is intimately familiar with the vineyards and winemaking. Indeed his brother was sometimes hospitalized for long periods of time and during these times it was Pierre-Jean who made the decisions. In the 15 years that I knew him, Philippe was always unfailingly cheerful and polite, even when seriously ill. I will be among the many who will miss him. As to the 2014 vintage, Pierre-Jean succinctly noted that "the vines benefitted from a dry and warm spring that encouraged an early bud break and an abundant fruit set. There was a fine flowering with almost no shatter so we knew that yields were going to be at least good absent a climatic catastrophe.

 

Despite a poor summer the head start that the vines had, allowed them to bring the fruit to excellent maturity levels thanks to a near perfect September. We picked from the 17th to the 25th of September and there really wasn't much in the way of sorting required as we had no particular problems with the Suzukii infestation plus the fruit was both thick-skinned and quite clean. I think that 2014 is a really good if not genuinely great vintage that should provide for a lot of pleasure." Pierre-Jean noted that from 2014 forward all of the wines will be labeled as Joseph Roty as his brother's vines will be incorporated into those of the domaine. As such there will no longer be wines labeled as Philippe Roty though there will be in 2013. In another change, the old vines cuvée of the Champs Chenys was incorporated into the regular cuvée though he was careful to note that they may actually label it as a vieilles vignes; either way the point is that there will not be two cuvées in 2014 as there were in 2013 and before. Roty further noted that the 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in March and April 2015 without fining or filtration.

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Origin

Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy
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