We are so often told that the great Pinot regions outside Burgundy are Oregon and an assortment from New Zealand. While wines like this latest collection from Kooyong are available, get on board because at some stage, the rest of the world is going to twig to what is going on down there in Mornington Peninsula. This pinot is from a 0.75 ha section of vines, from two blocks (the same two almost every time), planted more than two decades ago, within in their Haven Vineyard, known for being their most sheltered site. This allows the grapes more time to ripen, avoiding any strong winds. The full vineyard encompasses 6.88 hectares and totals seven blocks. The grapes are fully de-stemmed. Fermentation occurs over 18 days in large-format wooden and stainless-steel tanks, by way of native yeasts. The wine is then pressed and racked into French oak barriques (25% new), before undergoing malolactic fermentation. The total maturation period is 14 months. Bottling takes place without fining or filtration.
The colour is more sunset and a deeper crimson than that of the Meres. The aromas here are florals and that of raspberries. Some cherry pit notes mingle with earthy tones. There is a slight note of bramble and a lovely, luxurious, juicy texture. Very fine tannins abound, giving the wine a hint of velvety plushness. Good length to be found in this wine – it really does linger – and it undoubtedly has an exciting future, at least four to six years. 94.
