Planted between 2000 and 2002 at the very high density of 11,111 vines/ha and farmed biodynamically since inception. A tiny, south-east-facing block with slightly variable soils, graduating from top to bottom on the slope, through primarily shallow (10–15 cm) glauconitic clays over chalky limestone; 20–25% clay, 5–10% active lime. Hand-harvested 12 April 2020. Foot-stomped and whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous ferment in older French oak barrels and just one new barrel (less than 15%). 20 months on lees in barrel. Then aged on light lees for 6 months in stainless steel prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered in June 2022. TA 8.9 g/l, pH 3.07. Vegan-friendly. Just 275 cases of 6 produced. Director Steve Smith MW describes this as the ‘coolest vineyard for Chardonnay in the world’, in Waikari in the foothills of the southern Alps.
Limey citrus on the nose. Pithy grapefruit. Seems less flinty than the Springs Vineyard Chardonnay and more linear. Some green fruits. High acid and more grapefruit on the palate, piercing freshness and leaner than I expected. Really, really tightly wound. Pure, savoury, salty and long but with lovely crisp citrus fruit. Very lightly toasty, very lightly flinty, but not extreme. Creamy. Breadth comes from the toasty character not from fruit ripeness. Pure racy lemon-juice acidity. Outstanding purity.