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- 98p by Luis Gutierrez
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The 2017 Aconcagua Costa "Las Pizarras" Chardonnay is really fascinating, and it's even sharper, more restrained and with higher acidity than the 2016 that I tasted next to it. Winemaker Francisco "Pancho" Baettig is really pushing the wine to the limits—harvesting early and with more concentration and structure achieved through lower yields, which provides depth and complexity. The origin is the same as for 2016, and so is the vinification and aging in French barriques for almost 13 months. This is really young and austere, and it took some time in the glass to open up. It has Chablis-like definition, austerity and crispness; it's pure, mineral, long, precise like a laser cut, symmetric and chiseled. Even if it's sharp and citrusy, the palate has more volume and depth, and some nutty notes appear after some time. It's more like a Meursault than a Chablis this time, with great length, and I couldn't help but think of the whites from Jean-Marc Roulot when tasting this. It's a monumental mineral white, with the coastal freshness and the slate tastiness. This is hands down the best vintage of Las Pizarras and the best Chardonnay I've ever tasted from Chile. It's amazing how this wine has developed in only four vintages. As an American friend of mine would say, it's awesome beyond belief! 7,000 bottles were filled in March 2018.
The quality of the wines from Errázuriz is very high, and they are extremely reliable—which is especially remarkable because they produce some six million bottles per year. 2017 seems to have produced even fresher whites, while 2016 seems to perfectly fit the style of freshness and elegance they took some years ago. They produce some of the best wines from Chile and surely one world-class white—the Chardonnay Las Pizarras, a true icon and sought-after wine that has been made in only four vintages. Bravo!