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Viinin Kuvailu
The Story
Situated at the heart of the village, behind the house, this 2.1 ha parcel is a totally enclosed 'monopoly'.
It faces due east on a slight slope, in shallow, clay soil on a subsoil of hard limestone. The upper reaches of the parcel has been replanted in april 2004 (half an hectare). 0.8 ha are 50 years old and 0.8 ha are between 30 and 25.
The wines it produces are rich and fairly mineral ,with a pronounced citrus fruit aroma when young and marked acidity on the finish. This Meursault should be kept for at least 5 to 7 years to allow it to settle down.
| Appellation | Meursault |
| Parcel | Clos de la Barre |
| Exposure | East |
| Surface area | 2 ha 12 ares |
| Gradient |
0 to 2% |
| Plantation dates | 1950, 1975, 1999, 2004 |
| Rootstock | 161-49 |
| Graft | Mass selection, clones for the 1999 and 2004 vines |
Wine Information
Lafon Vintage 1990
The Weather
A very mild winter, vegetation started very early (March) followed by cold weather in April which slowed down growth . There was a risk of frost in the spring but there were no problems after all. Fruit set was very heavy, which forced us to remove part of the crop in the spring. Flowering went reasonably well and we discovered a lot of millerandage when it came to harvest-time, (Perrières, Genevrières, Charmes, Montrachet, Santenots, Santenots, Champans). No sanitary problems throughout the entire period. Summer was very dry, probably the driest over the last three years: no rain from 15/07 to 30/08. Botrytis presented no problem. At the end of August the excessive drought blocked ripening. Fortunately, 3 consecutive days of rain, followed by continuous sunshine up until the harvest started vegetation up again. Grapes were healthy on the eve of the harvest
The Harvest
It started on September 18th for the reds and September 21st for the whites. The entire period was sunny and the harvest lasted quite a long time (until September 28th). Despite the presence of millerandage and the fact that we had reduced the number of grapes, yield was extremely high:
* 50 to 55 hl/ha for whites (except Montrachet 30 hl/ha)
* 40 to 45 hl/ha for reds
The analyses were superb, 13° to a potential 13.7° for both reds and whites with acidities even better than in 1989.
Vinification
Presented no problems in particular. Fermentation was regular but not too fast (temperature controlled). No chaptalization was necessary.
The Wines
The reds are superb, the colour intense and true, the degrees around 13.5, the pH before malo around 3.30, the total acidity 4.90 which should bring us up to a pH of around 3.45 and to a total acidity of 3.80 to 4.00g at the end of malo. The tannins are high in quantity but very fine. They seem to be very balanced with a lovely density, definitely destined to be another great vintage, a little softer than in 1988 and 1989.
The whites are difficult to assess at this stage. The degrees are around 13.5 pH, and a 3.20 pH before malo with a total acidity of 4.90. When malo ends the wines should be around 3.30 pH with an acidity of 4.00g, which is better than in 1989. The wines have a lovely density and one would assess that 1990 will be somewhere between 1988 and 1999.
Text written 21th July, 1992
MEURSAULT PERRIERES 1990 From 40 year old vines, an exceptionally high but regular yield this year: i.e.: all the vines had grapes and these lovely clusters were constituted of small, very ripe and very healthy, golden berries, with a good acidity. This, therefore, explains the very high quality of this vintage in spite of the high yield. Ageing in new barrels until the first racking (April 1991), returned to older barrels, a second racking in April 1992 followed by fining and bottling without filtering (July 1992).At present this wine is a superb golden colour and the nose is typical of a Meursault which has reached maturity (toasted bread and hazelnut). On the palate it provides great power and fleshiness sustained by good acidity. Perfect to accompany some shellfish or white meat flavoured with truffles!
Vuosikerta 1990
1990 VINTAGE in Burgundy
This is probably the vintage of reference for many people in Burgundy. Exceptional climatic conditions allowed an abundant crop to mature perfectly and yield some most sensational wines in both red and white. The white wines have maintained their elegant aromas and freshness which has made them even more appealing, whilst the reds are concentrated and well built with tannins which remain firm but smooth. To be enjoyed for many years to come.
The drought that had plagued farming in 1989 again took its toll in many parts of France in 1990 with the notable exception of the best vineyards in France, including those of Burgundy.This year in the vineyards of the Côte d'Or the weather conditions resembled those of the French Riviera.
At this time, the natural sugar level in the Corton Charlemagne was 14 degrees and in the best vineyards of Corton Grancey the famous "degré 13" was consistently attained. Monsieur Duvaud-Blochet, a famous wine-grower of the 19th century, theorized on this rarely obtained level of sugar declaring that it was undeniably the bench-mark of quality.
A long awaited brief period of rain at the end of August really saved the vintage. The return of sunshine after this short spell of bad weather allowed an already abundant crop to perfectly mature and to yield a considerable quantity of very high quality wines in both reds and whites.
This however does not mean that all 1990 wines will be good. Over-production in some cases, picking prematurely in others, and also the consequences of drought on some slopes had an effect on quality.
The fact remains that all regions of Burgundy have benefitted from three successive fine vintages. 1990 is surely the biggest in size and of a quality which is at least equal to that of 1989.
It is not impossible that in due course we will see the best of the 1990 being of the quality of some of the excellent vintages of the past like `64 and possibly even `59.
It is of the utmost importance for Burgundy to be in a position to offer such a selection of fine wines from recent vintages. The 1988's are still a little austere but are beginning to show all the qualities of a classic vintage. The 89's are plentiful and rich for the whites, charming and easygoing for the reds and the 90's could well be a combination of both.
Nobody knows as yet what will be the effects on prices. What is sure is that any expectation of further price increases is obviously denied by the wine- growers. A healthy decline in the prices compared to those paid last year would be welcomed by the Trade and accepted by them. In due course this will be reflected in the quotations and will help Burgundy to recover its share of the world fine wine markets.