Andrew Jefford, The New France, Mitchell Beazley
"Some of Laurent's wines attain a gob-smacking exoticism quite unparalleled in Burgundy before his arrival: cherry liqueur, crème de cassis, chocolate and havana are all wrapped up in extraordinarily concentrated and showy flavours. This is Burgundy that pushes at the boundaries, that provides altogether new quality perspectives that should make all of the region's red winemakers think about th...
Dominique Laurent is a negoçiant-eleveur. He has only tiny vineyard holdings of his own and buys grapes or new wine from various growers, focussing only on old vines and low yields from almost every appellation on the Côte d'Or and occasionally from the Côte Chalonnaise. The word éleveur indicates that he 'raises' the wine. Initially he only bought young wine, taking delivery soon after vinification in the cellars of the growers with whom he i...
Laurent has his own cooperage and makes what are widely regarded as some of the world's finest barrels. These have been nick-named "magic casks", by renowned French wine taster Michel Bettane. Laurent goes into the Tronçais forest to select the trees (typically around 300 years of age) and transports them back to the cooperage himself, thus guaranteeing provenance (a very rare thing these days). He only uses the top section of the trunk, the ...
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