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Wine Advocate 10-year Quilceda Creek Vertical Review

This line up was one of the highlights of my trip through Washington and without a doubt, this awesome estate, which is run by Paul and Alex Golitzin, is producing some of the top Cabernet Sauvignon blends in the state, and I would venture the world. While all of the wines are incredibly age-worthy, the tannins are so well managed and the textures so polished, they dish out immense pleasure even in their youth.

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2010

Red Wine

Columbia Valley

Red 92

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2010

Palengat

Horse Heaven Hills

Red 97

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2009

Palengat

Horse Heaven Hills

Red 97

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2010

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 98+

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2009

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 99

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2008

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 97+

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2007

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 100

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2006

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 96

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2005

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 100

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2004

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 98

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2003

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 100

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2002

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 98

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2001

Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

Red 97

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2010

Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vyd

Red Mountain

Red 97

Quilceda Creek Vintners

2009

Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vyd

Red Mountain

Red 96

 

A superb entry level effort that has not only layers of fruit and texture, but solid back-end structure, the 2010 Red Wine is a declassified blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, yet has 15% Merlot and a splash of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in there as well. Up-front, perfumed and intense, it offers up spice-laced red and black fruits, toast, cedar, vanilla and hints of chocolate to go with a full-bodied, mouth-filling and voluptuously textured palate. Lacking the polish and elegance that can be found in this estate's upper tier efforts, it nevertheless has superb fruit, ripe tannin and serious length. Enjoy it while you wait for this estate's other wines to mature. Drink now-2020. Refined, elegant and supple yet also rich and concentrated, the Merlot-dominated 2010 Palengat has 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot in the blend and spent 20 months in 100% new French oak. Gorgeous on the nose, with notions of crème de cassis, violets, graphite and mint, it flows onto the palate with full-bodied richness and depth that's paired with a seamless, incredibly elegant and polished texture. Firming up on the finish with masses of tannin, mineral and juicy acidity, this incredible 2010 needs 3-5 years of bottle age and will have upwards of 15-20 years of ultimate longevity. Drink now-2030. Much more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, the 2009 Palengat (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot) shows the warmer vintage with ripe red and black fruit, licorice, roasted meat and hints of singed herbs on the nose. Fantastically polished on the palate, with silky tannin, full-bodied richness and a layered mouthfeel, it is a knockout effort that will have 15-20 years of prime drinking. Drink now–2029.

The estate's top cuvée, Paul's Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the warmer Champoux Vineyard located in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, yet also incorporates smaller components from Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Tapteil and Galitzine. It sees roughly 22 months in 100% new French oak.

Rich, backwards, structured and massively concentrated, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon comes mostly from the Champoux Vineyard (also from Galitzine, Klipsun, Palengat and Tapteil) and is comprised of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot that spent 22 months in all new French oak. Offering up plenty of crème de cassis, coffee bean, toasted spice, pencil shavings and violet-like qualities on the nose, it has palate staining levels of extract and tannin that come through on the mid-palate and finish. Gorgeously full-bodied, layered and textured, with perfect balance, this awesome Cabernet needs to be forgotten for 5-6 years and will have two to three decades of longevity. Drink 2018-2030.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot) is a ripe, flamboyant and brilliantly proportioned effort that oozes kirsch, licorice, lead pencil shavings and dried spice on the nose. Showing the perfume and headiness of the vintage, it nevertheless stays vibrant and lively on the palate while delivering layers of fruit and texture. While formidably structured and tannic, it can be enjoyed now due to the overall tannin quality and purity of fruit. It will evolve and drink well for over two decades. Drink now-2029.

More pure and focused than the 2009, with a slightly closer to the vest feel, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon shows the cooler nature of the vintage and has incredible detail, purity and freshness to its aromas and flavors. A blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot that spent 22 months in 100% new French oak, it offers classic black currant, spice box, coffee bean, violets and exotic spices to go with an ethereal, layered and seamless palate that delivers massive amounts of fruit and texture without any apparent weight. I thoroughly enjoyed it now, yet it will age for decades. Drink now–2033.

A monumental wine in the making, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of those wines that presents such an over the top array of aromas and flavors that it's hard to figure out what you think about it with just a quick glance. It's only with the second or third sip that you really start to see how special this effort truly is. Offering up perfumed, intense aromas of plum, violets, ink, licorice and black currants, it flows onto the palate with a massive, incredibly full-bodied texture that builds through the mid-palate and carries layers of polished tannins, awesome purity of fruit and blockbuster length. Most likely not for everyone given the sheer size, it is an incredible wine in my opinion. Still tasting like a barrel sample, it will have 30+ total years of longevity. Drink 2017-2037.

The most evolved of the lineup, with complex spice box, wild herbs, dried flowers, currants and scorched earth aromas all emerging from the glass, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is beautifully textured, full-bodied and seamless on the palate. Up-front and approachable, it nevertheless has the back-end richness, depth and structure to continue to evolve for another decade or more. Drink now-2023.

From a hot vintage and incredible any way you look at it, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has that laser-like focus of a cooler year, yet the voluptuousness and richness of a warmer year. Smoked black fruits, coffee, truffle and pen ink-like aromas and flavors all emerge from this massive, incredibly full-bodied effort and on the palate, it carries itself perfectly with a weightless, yet decadent texture, masses of polished tannin and blockbuster length. More classic and textbook than the 2007, it is every bit as good. Enjoy it over the coming two decades or more. Drink now-2033.

Also offering off-the-charts richness, with a flamboyant, hedonistic profile, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc) possesses spice-laced aromas and flavors of cassis, smoke, tobacco, roasted meats, dried licorice and wild herbs that are to die for. Full-bodied, incredibly layered, rich and textured, it has no hard edges, masses of tannin and a finish that won’t quit. I've been lucky enough to taste this cuvée three times (rated 96 and 97) in the past handful of weeks and this was the best showing yet. From a cool vintage, it is still youthful and vibrant, and will continue to shine for another 15+ years. Drink now-2028.

Another wine that I've had multiple times recently, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon (97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Merlot) is pure perfection in a glass and yields off-the-hook aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, tobacco leaf, pepper and licorice. Deep, layered and even elegant, with a seamless texture that conceals the sheer wealth of material present, it builds through the mid-palate, possesses huge amounts of extract and masses of polished tannin on the finish. Despite the overall size, it never loses its Cabernet Sauvignon soul and has an almost Bordeaux-like savoriness and tannic frame. Still young (yet gorgeous nonetheless), it can be enjoyed now or cellared for another 10-15+ years. Drink now-2028.

Almost as good as the 2003, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc that spent 22 months in 100% new French oak. Its youthful purple/ruby color is followed by gorgeously complex and intense aromas of wild herbs, exotic spices, caramelized beef, licorice and layers of sweet black fruits and creamy black cherry-like nuances. Full-bodied, rich and incredibly youthful, it opens up beautifully in the glass and is a total thrill ride of a Washington State Cabernet. I'd enjoy bottles over the coming decade, but it will hold longer. Drink now-2027.

A smidge more evolved than the 2002, the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, mostly from the famed Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. It offers a rock star bouquet of blackberry liqueur, cassis, dried licorice, spice and roasted meats to go with a full-bodied, concentrated, yet incredibly polished and elegantly textured mouthfeel. Blockbuster stuff that has everything, it is still youthful and vibrant and has another decade or more of longevity, although I see no reason to delay gratification. Drink now-2023.

Even more concentrated, structured and dense than the Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard (99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot, all from the Red Mountain AVA) delivers an incredible array of black currant, dark chocolate, cedar, tobacco and assorted spring flower-like nuances that give way to a massively concentrated, tannic and structured 2010 that has brilliant mid-palate depth, integrated acidity and a pure, detailed and energetic texture that carries through the finish. As with the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, this is more fun to taste than to drink presently and needs 5-6 years or more of bottle age to round into form. It too will have two to three decades or more of ultimate longevity. Drink 2018-2035. Also incredibly concentrated, with burly structure and a mountain of tannin, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard (99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot) delivers a seriously intense array of blackberry and kirsch-styled fruit, licorice, charcoal and spice box on both the nose and palate. Aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak and a big, broad shouldered, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a rocking mid-palate and fabulous length on the finish. Really showing the power of its Red Mountain terroir, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age to become civilized and will have decades of evolution. Drink 2017-2034.

Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Issue 207

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History

Quilceda Creek is dedicated exclusively to the production of world-class Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon. Founded in 1979, Quilceda Creek has had an unbroken string of highly-rated vintages that has led Robert Parker Jr. to name it Washington State's premier Cabernet Sauvignon producer.

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Vineyards

Great wine begins in great vineyards. Beginning in 1997, Quilceda Creek became a partner in Champoux Vineyard, LLC with a handful of other Washington wineries. To commemorate that event, Quilceda Creek released our first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon; 1997 Quilceda Creek Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. This was the first, and only, single-vineyard wine produced by Quilceda Creek from Champoux Vineyard.

In 2001, the Golitzin Family partnered with Jim Holmes of Ciel du Cheval in the Red Mountain AVA to develop the Galitzine Vineyard. This 17-acre vineyard is planted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 2006, Paul Golitzin and brother-in-law John Ware acquired a 4.5-acre vineyard located next to Champoux Vineyard. Renaming the vineyard Palengat in recognition of the French side of the family, this vineyard produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Wine from this vineyard initially debut in the fall of 2009 with the release of 2006 Quilceda Creek Palengat Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. In subsequent years, the vineyard designation was dropped and was replaced with Palengat Proprietary Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills.

In July 2014, Paul and Judy Champoux retired from Champoux Vineyards. Quilceda Creek acquired their remaining interest in the vineyard and hired Dan Nickolaus as the estates' new vineyard manag

Champoux Vineyards originally began as Mercer Ranch Vineyard planted by Don and Linda Mercer in the early 70's and 80's. It is one of the oldest vineyards in Washington State. Champoux Vineyards, LLC was created in 1996 by Paul and Judy Champoux and a small group of wineries that had been customers for many years. It is now owned exclusively by the winery members, including Quilceda Creek, Woodward Canyon, Andrew Will and Powers. Paul Champoux managed the vineyard from 1989 until 2014. He greatly improved the quality of this 184.8 acre vineyard with his canopy management and nutritional balance turning it into one of the most highly acclaimed vineyards in the world. The fruit from this site has been used by Quilceda Creek almost exclusively for its Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon since 2001. Since then Quilceda Creek has garnered classic 96-100 point scores from the Wine Advocate, including 4 perfect 100 point scores; a true testament to what can be achieved consistently from this amazing place.

With the retirement of Paul and Judy Champoux, Dan Nickolaus became the estate's vineyard manager who will continue to farm the vineyard meticulously and with great passion in our quest to grow perfect fruit.

Champoux Vineyard lies between 600-800 feet in elevation on fine sandy loam soils allowing for great root development and extremely even vigor. It consists of 141.4 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5 acres of Merlot, 8.4 acres of Cabernet Franc, 5.9 acres of Malbec, 2.7 acres of Petit Verdot and 16.9 acres of various other varietals that will soon be replanted to Bordeaux varietals. Champoux Vineyards is located in Alderdale, Washington, a few miles north of the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

 

 

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Inside information

Alex and Jeannette Golitzin  Biographical Sketch

 

Alex and Jeannette Golitzin

Alex and Jeannette Golitzin have relentlessly pursued their goal of crafting world-class Cabernet Sauvignon since founding Quilceda Creek in 1978 by dedicating themselves to quality every step of the way. What started as Washington State's 12th bonded winery after Prohibition has slowly grown to become one of America's most sought-after Cabernets. Since 2004 the wines have been made in a state-of-the-art winery next to the family's home in Snohomish, Washington.

Some say Alex's path to winemaking was predestined. He is a relative of Prince Lev Sergervich Golitzin, acclaimed winemaker to Russian Tsar Nicholas II, also known as the founder of the Massandra collection. Begun by Prince Golitzin in the late 19th century, the Massandra Collection comprises examples of every Massandra vintage, as well as European wines from the personal collection of Golitzin himself. On his mother's side, Alex is the nephew of the late, great André Tchelistcheff, legendary Napa Valley vintner.

Born in France at the beginning of World War II, Alex lived in Paris until 1946 when his family immigrated to San Francisco, California. Throughout his youth, his family often visited Napa Valley and his Uncle André at Beaulieu Vineyards.

Alex received a degree in Chemical Engineering from the University of California in Berkeley. Following two years as an officer in the Army Chemical Corp, including duty at Fort Lewis, Washington, he worked for Standard Oil at the Richmond, California refinery for three years before moving back to Washington in 1967 to work for Scott Paper.

Uncle André, whose consulting work brought him to Washington frequently in the '70s and '80s, was a mentor to Alex during Quilceda Creek's early years. Washington State's ability to produce fine red wine was unproven at the time, but Alex and Jeannette were undaunted and so while Alex worked his "day job" as a chemical engineer for Scott Paper and Jeannette was a busy mother of three, the couple made their first barrel of Cabernet in 1974. Following three more barrels in each of the following vintages, Alex and Jeannette made the bold decision to bond the winery in 1978. With Alex as winemaker and Jeannette as sales director, Quilceda Creek produced its first commercially-released Cabernet Sauvignon in 1979.

In 1983, Quilceda Creek was awarded the Enological Society of the Northwest's Grand Prize, an honor that caught the attention of astute wine enthusiasts both locally and nationally. Throughout the 1980s, acclaim for the wines began to grow and production slowly increased. In 1994, Alex retired from Scott Paper to pursue his quest for the ultimate Cabernet full-time.

Son Paul Golitzin assumed winemaking responsibilities with his father in 1992. With a commitment to quality that rivaled his parents', Paul focused the winery's attention on its greatest asset, the vineyards of the Columbia Valley. As a result, Quilceda Creek selectively acquired a handful of vineyards over the next decade, a move that catapulted the quality of wines to a new level of excellence.

In 1997, Quilceda Creek formed a partnership with Paul Champoux and a few other marquee wineries, including Andrew Will, to purchase Mercer Ranch Vineyard (renamed Champoux Vineyard) in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Then in 2001, the family planted the 17-acre Galitzine Vineyard estate adjacent to Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. In 2006, the winery expanded its estate vineyard holdings again with the purchase of a five acre site adjacent to Champoux Vineyard that included a long-term lease for 3.5 additional acres next to the property.

In the fall of 2007, the winery released its first vineyard-designated Cabernet Sauvignon from Galitzine Vineyard, its estate property on Red Mountain, and in the fall of 2009, Quilceda Creek added Palengat Cabernet Sauvignon to its all-star line-up.

In recent years, acclaim has driven fever-pitched demand for the wine. "There isn't a Cabernet producer with this winery's track record for consistency," wrote Robert M. Parker Jr.'s Wine Advocate in 2006, bestowing two perfect 100 point ratings on both the 2002 and 2003 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon. In the summer of 2008, the winery received another 100 point rating from Mr. Parker's publication, this time for the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery received their 4th 100 point rating for the 2007 vintage. The 2004 and 2006 vintages both earned 99 pts.

Quilceda Creek was the only Washington winery featured in Mr. Parker's most recent book, The World's Greatest Wine Estates, placing the winery alongside such old world estates as Lafite, Latour and Petrus. "(Quilceda Creek) is turning out compelling wines of irrefutable richness and complexity," writes Parker, "These are prodigious, world-class wines."

In his recent book, Washington Wines & Wineries – the Essential Guide, Washington wine expert and critic Paul Gregutt, says it's the winery's track record for consistency that is one of the principal reasons Quilceda Creek was the only Washington winery to receive a perfect score in his book. Gregutt writes, "The father-son team of Alex and Paul Golitzin are making, by anyone's standard, as fine a Cabernet Sauvignon as anyone in the world. Their single-minded focus, their ability to make brilliant wine in virtually every vintage, and, most impressively their unbroken track record of excellence are unparalleled. Nobody does it better."

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