The Bonnaire family's own favorite vintage, and of course my expectations were gigantic when it was finally decanted. I had succeeded in getting M. Bonnaire to release a bottle for our auction at Christie's in New York during the autumn of 1999. Of course it was I who made the successful bid on the bottle. At first glance, the bottle appeared to be wrongly labeled, but a look at the cork dispelled all such thoughts, as did the forceful, smoky bouquet with its gamy notes and tar-like overtones. The palate was, to be honest, slightly disappointing: Cramant's butteriness had vanished into thin air and the notes I described from the bouquet had taken over. On the other hand, length and mousse were extremely impressive.
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